National Park Tips – Yellowstone

National Park Tips – Yellowstone

Right now I’m about halfway through my stay at Glacier National Park. At some point in the future, I will write a post with tips for this park. But, as the summer vacation season reaches it’s peak, I thought it might be helpful to share my experiences at different National Parks in hopes that it may help you maximize your enjoyment when visiting these magnificent places.

I spent some time in Yellowstone last September and these are a few of the things I learned regarding photography, and just spending time there in general.

Above Grand Prismatic Spring

Yellowstone National Park’s Grand Prismatic Spring is the third largest hot spring in the world, so big it’s visible from space. The striking colors of the pool match the dispersion of light found in the rainbow.

1.) Give Yourself Plenty of Time

This is by far the most important thing to keep in mind when visiting Yellowstone. The park is vast! If you only have a few days, then you might want to pick a few of the sights you want to see and save the others for another trip. I was there for only four days and it felt like I spent most of my time driving from one place to another. When you look at the map and distances between places, DOUBLE the amount of travel time you think you will need. Thousands of other people are trying to get to the places you are trying to get to. Add to that road construction and wildlife delays, and the drive ends up taking far longer than you imagined.

Yellowstone Falls in the Mist

Lower Falls at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone on a misty, rainy autumn morning.

2.) Stay Where You Play

This is a tip I stole from an RV blog that I read, and it goes hand in hand with tip #1. There are four major “hubs” in Yellowstone. In each area, you will find campgrounds, hotels, shops, and restaurants. Mammoth in the northwest corner is an area of geothermal activity, rivers, waterfalls and canyons. Elk regularly wander through the village. The Norris/Madison area is also surrounded by geothermal wonders and in close proximity to Old Faithful. In my experience, this is the most crowded area of the park. The West Thumb/Fishing Bridge area is where I stayed on my visit. Fishing Bridge has the only full-hookup RV sites in the park. The area is adjacent to Yellowstone Lake and there are good wildlife viewing opportunities north in the Hayden Valley and east toward the Bighorn Pass. The Canyon Village/Tower area is the place to be for access to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, numerous other waterfalls, and the closest hub to the more remote Lamar Valley wildlife viewing opportunities. Keep in mind that you will likely see wildlife throughout the park, but certain areas provide better odds for certain species. Here is a link to a map that will give you an idea of how these places are situated.

Bison at the Yellowstone River

A wild bison browses near the bank of the Yellowstone River at Sunset. Herds of bison are ubiquitous in Yellowstone National Park in Northwestern Wyoming.

3.) Bring a Telephoto Lens

If you want to photograph wildlife, especially the large animals such as bears, bison and elk, you will need a long lens. With all the stories in the news lately about people getting too close to wildlife, I can’t emphasize this enough. Even if you happen to find yourself in close proximity to a wild animal, you put yourself and the animal in danger by lingering to take photos. When I visited, I observed too many people getting too close to wild animals, including bears. Stay back and zoom in.

Grizzly

A large adult grizzly bear in the forest at Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.

4.) Slow Down and Enjoy the Wonder

Again, this relates back to tip #1. If you don’t give yourself enough time, you end up being one of those stressed out, speeding, tailgating drivers who endanger the wildlife and other drivers. There will be times when you will get stuck in a “bison jam.” There will be times when parking lots are full and you can’t go where you wanted. Relax, take a deep breath and look around you. The place is amazing, even if it didn’t go exactly as you planned.

Orange Spring Mound

Yellowstone’s Orange Spring Mound is a large travertine mound created by the buildup of dissolved minerals, pushed to the surface by the geothermal activity of Mammoth Hot Springs.

5.) Get Up Early

Especially if you want to visit some of the more popular sights, like Old Faithful, you will find they are less crowded early in the morning than later in the day. As a bonus, the natural light for taking photos is generally better either just after sunrise, or just before sunset. This is more of a general tip for all National Parks and all photography, but it is worth mentioning.

These are just a few of the things I learned during my visit. If I go back, I will likely try to spend a few days in each major area, rather than try to see it all from one base. Or I will plan multiple trips focused on certain areas. A place as vast and full of wonder as Yellowstone cannot be fully appreciated in a hurry. Instead of trying to see it all, decide what you want to see most, and spend some time lingering. You’ll be glad you did.

Questions and comments are always appreciated.

What a year it’s been!

What a year it’s been!

The one year anniversary of my vagabond life was September 17th. I spent it photographing wildlife in the rain in Grand Teton National Park. It’s hard to believe it’s already been a year since that bittersweet day I left most of my possessions behind and began an unforgettable journey into the unknown.

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A cow elk crosses the Snake River enveloped in the early morning mist. Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.

Along the way, I’ve seen amazing sights, old friends, ancient ruins, dear family, and indescribable beauty.

House on Fire; Utah; anasazi; mule canyon; ancient; ruins; cliff dwellings; sandstone; desert southwest; flame; blanding ut; cedar mesa; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

These Anasazi ruins in Utah’s Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the “House on Fire” ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.

Above Grand Prismatic Spring; yellowstone national park; wyoming; picture hill; hot spring; colors; colorful; rainbow; pool; geothermal; steam; teton county wy; midway geyser basin; boardwalk

Yellowstone National Park’s Grand Prismatic Spring is the third largest hot spring in the world, so big it’s visible from space. The striking colors of the pool match the dispersion of light found in the rainbow.

I’ve fretted over the weather and been awestruck by it.

Storm View; cedaredge overlook; colorado; grand mesa; mesa county co; delta valley; thunderstorms; storm; stormy; clouds; weather; rain; vast; vista; showers; dramatic; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Dramatic view from the Cedaredge Overlook on Colorado’s Grand Mesa on a stormy summer afternoon.

I’ve learned that traveling is much different when it’s your life. I go slower, see more, and change my plans often. I’ve discovered the true meaning of “it’s not the destination, but the journey.” I’ve stressed over repairs and thanked my lucky stars that this old motor home is still holding up. I’ve been back to familiar places and discovered some I never knew existed.

Boxelder Canyon Wyoming; gorge; converse county wy; glenrock; little known; scenic; inaccessible; enchanting; unspoiled; nature; natural; wilderness; creek; waterfalls; pools; clean; beautiful; rocks; water; scenery; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Boxelder Canyon is a little-known, beautifully scenic gorge in Converse County Wyoming, near the town of Glenrock. The interior of the canyon is virtually inaccessible to all but the most determined of hikers. There are no trails and many sheer rock walls, which is perhaps why it is still as enchanting and unspoiled as it was when I lived in this area more than three decades ago.

 

sail away; battleship rock; valley of the gods; southern ut; utah; monument valley; remote; buttes; mesas; balancing rocks; erosion; desert southwest; four corners; inspiring; beautiful; surreal; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Battleship Rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley. Managed by BLM, Valley of the Gods is also less crowed than its more famous counterpart, even though it’s more accessible.

I’ve seen wild creatures large and small.

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This bull moose definitely had somewhere to go. He was walking determinedly in the cold, pouring rain at Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.

 

Formal Attire; male; black chinned; hummingbird; in flight; dressed up; hovering; tiny; wild; wildlife; little; fly; flying; bird; small; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

The male black-chinned hummingbirds always seem to be all dressed up. Especially when the light hits them just right.

I’ve been in the shadow of some of the highest mountains in this country, and some of the smallest.

Teton Dream; mount moran; mt. moran; grand tetons; oxbow bend; grand teton national park; fresh snow; valley fog; smooth water; snake river; wyoming; teton county wy; jackson hole; autumn colors; fall; season; morning; dawn; sunrise; peaks; jagged; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

First light on Mount Moran and the Grand Tetons at Oxbow Bend in Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park. Fresh snow, valley fog, autumn colors, and smooth water make this scene a dream come true.

Thunderstorm Over the Sutter Buttes; sunset; dusk; weather; storm; glow; light; pink; orange; colusa county ca; california; sacramento valley; orchards; farms; dramatic; farmland; landmark; central valley ca; sutter county ca; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

A thunderstorm rolls in over the Sutter Buttes in the central valley of California at sunset. In this view from the west,the swirling clouds are illuminated by the setting sun in a dramatic weather display.

My home has been at sea level and at over 8000 feet. I’ve met others who, like me, choose to live this way and others who live this way not of their own choice. I’ve met people who wish to live this life “someday,” and some who have been doing it for decades. And despite the impressions some people seem to have, my life is not just one big vacation. There is still laundry, grocery shopping, house cleaning and dirty dishes. A lot of time is spent on RV maintenance as well. I’ve found that no matter what I expect, life still gives me the unexpected. I’ve gotten comfortable with not knowing what’s next. Some of the places I thought would be amazing turned out to only be okay. Some of the places I thought would be okay turned out to be amazing.

Falls Creek Falls; tiers; two; three; awe-inpiring; waterfall; autumn; rain; scene; scenic; travel; nature; natural; mist; spray; splash; big; gifford pinchot national forest; washington; southern; wa; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Falls Creek Falls is an awe-inspiring waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National forest of southern Washington. The water falls more than 300 feet over three tiers. Only the lower two tiers are visible at once, as in this image captured in the autumn rain.

Nine states in the first year and I’ve just crossed into the tenth. Montana is the place I begin year two. Looking back, I can’t help but feel incredibly grateful for the choices I’ve made and the opportunities I’ve been given. Although it hasn’t been all rainbows and unicorns, it has been one of the best years of my life.

Magical Rainbow Reflection; Waldport OR; Oregon; Alsea River; rainbow; reflect; reflection; reflected; water; sky; double; rain; weather; sun; refract; beauty; scene; scenic; calm; serene; serenity; peace; nature; natural; magic; pot of gold; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

The pot of gold is in Waldport, Oregon. The beautiful rainbow is reflected in the calm morning water of the Alsea River for only a few magical moments.

As my 53rd birthday approaches, I can only hope for the good fortune to continue. And even if it doesn’t, I have an incredible year of memories and experiences that have changed me forever.

 

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