Finding My Way Home – The Columbia Gorge

Finding My Way Home – The Columbia Gorge

The Columbia Gorge is the fourth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

Overlooking the Columbia River Gorge at sunrise.
“Columbia Gorge Sunrise”

I agree to go on ahead and set up camp while Chris wraps up his business in Pasco, so I’m traveling alone for the first time. My destination is Wind Mountain RV Park just outside of Stevenson, Washington. I program the GPS and set off. You know where this is going, right? My directions take me along the south side of the Columbia River to the town of Hood River, Oregon, then across the river to the Washington side to reach my destination. When I get to the toll booth, I look ahead at the bridge, and think to myself “I can’t fit.” As the toll collector takes my dollar, he smiles knowingly, as if he’s seen that same look of terror on driver’s faces before. This is from the website for the bridge: “Please note: Due to the very narrow travel lanes on the Hood River Bridge, drivers of large vehicles are advised to turn in your mirrors before approaching the Bridge. Rear view mirrors are often damaged by colliding with the mirrors of other vehicles traveling in the opposite direction.” If I had read this before, I would have chosen a different route. Not only is it narrow, it’s long—almost a mile. I make it across, with my mirrors intact, but am still shaking as I arrive at my destination, fifteen miles later. Another lesson in not trusting the GPS is complete. One day, I will actually learn these lessons.

Dog Creek is a small creek on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge in the Pacific Northwest. At the height of autumn color on a drizzly day in November, the scene at the 33 foot waterfall is one of absolute peace and serenity.
“Dog Creek Falls”

This will be my first monthly stay. Since monthly stays are generally much less expensive, I’ve planned my budget to alternate between short stays and longer ones. And because the Columbia Gorge is full of waterfalls and wildlife and so many things to see, it’s a good place to stay a month. I have memories (and photos) from previous trips here, so my plan is to explore the lesser known, off the beaten path places.

Now, for the first time since leaving Yreka, I notice there are people living in RV’s who haven’t necessarily chosen to live this way. I suppose I was being naïve in thinking most people I would meet on the road would be either living the life I was living, or on vacation. It just didn’t occur to me, although it should have, that living in an RV is sometimes just one step from homelessness. In fact, I realize that I am also somewhere on the spectrum between “housed” and “unhoused.” This sudden realization is at once shocking, humbling, and slightly confusing to me. I’ve never considered myself homeless, but I am certainly “houseless” now.

The Gibbons Creek Art Trail at the Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge passes through a shaded glen where small spots of dappled sunlight make their way through the tree branches. This American Bittern (Botaurus lentiginosus) was sitting still as a statue in one of the small bits of sunshine. Almost as if on stage in the spotlight.
“American Bittern Spotlighted”

Regardless of how society views me and my lifestyle choices, I have a robust agenda and a plan to live life to the fullest. I spend my first full day in the gorge visiting the Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge. I’m finding myself drawn more and more towards wildlife photography these days. I still enjoy landscape photography, but at least at the moment, stalking and shooting birds and other wildlife feels like more of a challenge. This particular refuge is home to a trail called the Gibbons Art Trail, which incorporates works of art into an interpretive nature trail through the refuge. It’s a beautiful, creative place to enjoy both art and nature. I thoroughly enjoy the walk and spot several “firsts” along the trail. I see my first American Bittern, my first muskrat, and for the first time, a great blue heron catching, killing and eating a snake.

Lower Falls of the Lewis River, Washington in autumn. The leaves are beginning to change and the rains have replenished the low flows of summer. As the storm begins to clear, the mists of the clouds slowly retreat from the valley, leaving only a hint of the fog that started the day, like a heavy sigh.
“Autumn at Lower Falls”

High on my list of places to visit is the lower falls of the Lewis River. I have memories of visiting this beautiful waterfall many years ago with my ex-husband and I am anxious to create new memories of it. Takhlakh Lake, the lake the photographer in Pasco told me about, is also on my list. As is normal for this area and season, the weather is mostly cloudy and drizzly. I keep putting off the trip to Takhlakh Lake hoping for clear skies since the reflection of Mount Adams is the key photographic element of the location.

Finally, after visiting many of the waterfalls on my list, with no clear days in sight, we set off for Takhlakh Lake. The trip is roughly sixty miles, and not all paved. We stop for lunch at a tiny town called BZ Corner. When we finally arrive at the lake in early afternoon, the sky is overcast and the mountain is nowhere in sight. Being unfamiliar with the place, I’m not even sure where it would be if it were visible. I decide that photos of a beautiful alpine lake, even without a mountain reflection, are not so bad after all. There is no one here on a drizzly October weekday, so I walk the trail around the shore looking for a good spot to photograph the lake. I find a nice area with a fallen tree which will make a perfect leading line toward the opposite shore. Just as I finish setting up the tripod and camera, checking settings, and taking a few test shots, the sky begins to lighten. Before I realize what’s happening, the clouds part and there is Mount Adams, directly in front of me, blanketed in a fresh pristine coat of snow. And it’s making a perfect reflection in the glass-smooth surface of the lake. Unbelievable is the only word to describe it! Between stopping for lunch, stopping at a small waterfall, and the rough dirt roads, it’s taken us more than three hours to get here and not once during that time did the clouds clear. I’ve only been on the road about six weeks and already I’ve had more photographic good fortune than the previous four years combined. I’m starting to feel like this is meant to be.

As the remains of an autumn snowstorm slowly clear, majestic Mount Adams, wearing a fresh blanket of snow, is unveiled by the retreating clouds. The gorgeous, mirror-like reflection in Takhlakh Lake, would seem unreal if not for the mist rising from the far shore.
“Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams”

The Columbia Gorge is filled with spectacular waterfalls, but there are dozens of lesser-known, and incredibly beautiful waterfalls in areas surrounding it. One of these is Falls Creek Falls. The most difficult part of the hike is finding the trailhead, which is located about fifteen miles north of the gorge. It’s unfortunate that such a remarkable waterfall has been given such an unremarkable name. Not only is the waterfall beautiful, but the hike is one of the most enjoyable I can remember, even in a constant drizzle.

Falls Creek Falls is an awe-inspiring waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National forest of southern Washington. The water falls more than 300 feet over three tiers. Only  the lower two tiers are visible at once, as in this image captured in the autumn rain.
“Falls Creek Falls”

Upon returning from one of the near-daily waterfall trips, I open my laptop to upload the day’s photos. The computer refuses to power up. I try again—nothing. Using Chris’s laptop, we search desperately online for a solution. We try all the suggested troubleshooting tips, both on the Dell website and others. I’m devastated when all symptoms point to a dead motherboard. The good news is I bought this laptop specifically for my new adventure and it’s still under warranty. I call Dell and they have me repeat all the troubleshooting steps I’ve already tried. They confirm that a motherboard replacement is in order. They ask for my address in order to schedule a technician to come out and perform the repair. I explain to them that I live in my motorhome and will happily bring the laptop to a repair facility nearby. They insist that my warranty covers on-site service and they will send someone to wherever I am located.

A few days later, a young man arrives with a new motherboard. He resuscitates my computer at a tiny RV dinette with a silly yellow lab whining at his feet the entire time. I apologize profusely for the working conditions and explain how I would just take the dog for a walk if it wasn’t pouring rain with fifty mile per hour wind gusts. He works diligently and leaves just as soon as we both confirm the computer is working and all my files are present and accounted for. Having worked in I.T. in my previous life, I know he will tell the story of the woman in the RV in the Columbia Gorge with the crazy dog for years to come.

Multnomah Falls, Oregon's most recognizable waterfall, on a perfect autumn day.
“Postcard From Oregon”
Water Therapy

Water Therapy

When I first went on the road in 2014, Proxy Falls was on my list of possible waterfalls to visit. That autumn, I chose a different route and ended up in the Columbia River Gorge. With my appetite for waterfall photography thoroughly satiated, I put Proxy Falls on the “someday” list and moved on. This past week, “someday” finally arrived.

"Proxy Falls" by Loree Johnson Photography. It's no wonder Proxy Falls is one of the most photographed waterfalls in the United States. Located in the Three Sisters Wilderness in the Cascades of central Oregon, the waterfall drops 226 feet over a moss covered basalt wall. This spectacular falls is well worth the hike. Proxy Falls

After spending some time at Sauvie Island, near Portland, Oregon, my next firm destination was Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. The logical route was Highway 20 through central Oregon and over the Cascades. What a treat I was in for! Having never visited this particular part of Oregon, I had no idea what I had been missing. Proxy Falls is not the only spectacular waterfall in the area.

"Koosah Falls" by Loree Johnson Photography. Located approximately a quarter mile downstream from Sahalie Falls in central Oregon, the McKenzie River drops another 70 feet at Koosah Falls. This waterfall plunges into a beautiful blue pool. Koosah Falls

Koosah Falls is the lower of two amazing waterfalls on the McKenzie River below Clear Lake. The water is crystal clear and ice cold and, at least when I visited, the falls were very powerful, creating a cloud of mist for hundreds of feet.

"Sahalie Falls" by Loree Johnson Photography. Located on the beautiful McKenzie River in central Oregon, Sahalie falls drops 100 feet over a lava rock ledge. The force of this waterfall creates a massive amount of spray, which is visible for several hundred feet downriver. Sahalie Falls

Sahalie Falls is upstream from Koosah Falls about a quarter of a mile. This waterfall is very close to the road (highway 126) and the easiest to access. This waterfall is so powerful that you will breathe mist from almost anywhere along the viewing platform or trail. There is a trail that connects the two waterfalls and parking lots at both, so you have the choice of walking or driving from one to the other. The walk is wonderful and the section of the McKenzie River between the two waterfalls is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen.

"McKenzie River, Oregon" by Loree Johnson Photography. Located in central Oregon's Cascade Range, the McKenzie River falls twice in approximately a quarter mile, creating two spectacular waterfalls. Between the two falls is a gorgeous section of clear, swift river. McKenzie River, Oregon

Since I was a child, I have found peace in being near flowing water. Streams, rivers and waterfalls have a naturally calming effect and remind me that some things really are just perfect. With all the trouble in the world lately, visiting the waterfalls and the river was just the ticket. The campground where I stayed had no wifi or cell service, so being out of the loop of daily news was also a welcome respite.

I only had five days to spend in the area, so now that I’ve been there, it’s come off the “someday” list and added to the “must return” list. If you ever get the opportunity, I highly recommend visiting the McKenzie River and surrounding area.

America’s Public Lands – Takhlakh Lake

America’s Public Lands – Takhlakh Lake

The journey to Takhlakh Lake began unexpectedly, about a month earlier, standing on a dike above the Columbia River in Kennewick, Washington. There to photograph the rise of the full moon over the Cable Bridge, I met another photographer who was there to capture the same. Both of us had plotted out the moon’s trajectory in relation to the bridge and had arrived plenty early in order to prepare and readjust, if necessary. Waiting for the moon to rise is a common theme for me, since the exact time it breaks over the horizon is dependent upon the elevation of said horizon. This uncertainty leads me to arrive and set up generally at least an hour before the moon.

Full moon rising over the Cable Bridge in Kennewick, Washington. Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge

With our tripods in place and cameras pointing in the direction of the bridge, we started to chat while we waited. The usual question “Where are you from?” started us off. This is always a tricky one for me because there is no cut and dried answer. Born in Wyoming, having lived most of my adult life in Northern California, neither of those is an honest response to the underlying premise of the question, which is “Where will you return to when you leave here?” And so began the conversation. Me explaining that I have no permanent home and had intentions to travel west to the Columbia Gorge after leaving eastern Washington. As a resident of the Tri-Cities area, my new friend was a frequent traveler to the gorge. He was happy to share suggestions for things to see and photo opportunities. That’s how I found out about Takhlakh Lake.

Full moon reflecting in the Columbia River over the Cable Bridge in Kennewick, Washington. Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge

Once I got to the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, I knew I wanted to find Takhlakh Lake and try for a photo with a reflection of Mount Adams. Google Maps told me it was approximately 60 miles to my northeast, situated within the huge Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Located in Southwest Washington State, the Gifford Pinchot National Forest encompasses 1,368,300 acres of forests, mountains, river valleys, waterfalls, and lakes. Pacific Northwest weather being what it is, I waited for a day without rain. The wait lasted two weeks. Finally, a break in the rain came, but the sky was still overcast. I decided to set out anyway, and just settle for lake photographs if Mt. Adams was not visible.

Big Spring Creek, below the falls, in Washington's Gifford Pinchot National Forest. This area of temperate rain forest in the Pacific Northwest is perpetually lush and green, the perfect setting for imagination and fairytales. Fairyland Fantasy

Sixty miles sounds like a relatively short drive, but when it’s comprised mainly of forest service roads, some paved, some not, it takes a while. Despite the gloomy weather, the drive was beautiful. A few miles from the lake, I spotted a sign that read “Big Spring Creek Falls.” Well, I’ve never been one to pass a waterfall without stopping, so a short detour was in order. The falls were spread out over three tiers, and the forest was much too thick to get a shot of the entirety of all three in one frame. The weather that was threatening my lake reflection shot was, however, perfect for waterfall images.

Big Spring Creek Falls is actually a three-tiered waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, set in a shady fairyland glen, covered in moss and ferns and very green, even in October. It's not possible to photograph all three tiers in the same image, so it's more like three small unique waterfalls. Big Spring Creek Falls – Middle Tier

After a longer than expected side trip to the waterfall and several more miles of gravel road, plus a brief snow flurry, I finally arrived at Takhlakh Lake. It was every bit as beautiful and secluded as my friend in Kennewick had described it. From the parking lot, there was access to a lakeside trail that followed the shore. I set out to find a location from which to shoot some images of this pristine alpine lake. When I found a fallen tree with its top pointing in the direction of the far shore, that was it. I set up the tripod and started to decide which settings I would use, when I noticed it was getting lighter. I looked up, and couldn’t believe what I saw. Mt. Adams was appearing before my eyes as the clouds began to lift! And thanks to the stormy weather, there was a pure white blanket of fresh snow on the mountain!

"Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams" by Loree Johnson Photography. This image is part of the artist's specially selected Premium Collection of distinctive images. As the remains of an autumn snowstorm slowly clear, majestic Mount Adams, wearing a fresh blanket of snow, is unveiled by the retreating clouds. The gorgeous, mirror-like reflection in Takhlakh Lake, would seem unreal if not for the mist rising from the far shore. Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams

Days when everything comes together perfectly are rare, and this was one of those rare, unforgettable days, more than a month in the making. America’s public lands are truly our greatest national treasure. Thank you for visiting them with me in this series of articles. And I hope you will join me in supporting those who are dedicated to keeping them public for generations to come. See you on the next adventure!

Mount Adams reflected in Takhlakh Lake in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Fresh snow has just fallen and the trees are still frosted. Mount Adams Doubled

 

National Park Tips – Yellowstone

National Park Tips – Yellowstone

Right now I’m about halfway through my stay at Glacier National Park. At some point in the future, I will write a post with tips for this park. But, as the summer vacation season reaches it’s peak, I thought it might be helpful to share my experiences at different National Parks in hopes that it may help you maximize your enjoyment when visiting these magnificent places.

I spent some time in Yellowstone last September and these are a few of the things I learned regarding photography, and just spending time there in general.

Above Grand Prismatic Spring

Yellowstone National Park’s Grand Prismatic Spring is the third largest hot spring in the world, so big it’s visible from space. The striking colors of the pool match the dispersion of light found in the rainbow.

1.) Give Yourself Plenty of Time

This is by far the most important thing to keep in mind when visiting Yellowstone. The park is vast! If you only have a few days, then you might want to pick a few of the sights you want to see and save the others for another trip. I was there for only four days and it felt like I spent most of my time driving from one place to another. When you look at the map and distances between places, DOUBLE the amount of travel time you think you will need. Thousands of other people are trying to get to the places you are trying to get to. Add to that road construction and wildlife delays, and the drive ends up taking far longer than you imagined.

Yellowstone Falls in the Mist

Lower Falls at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone on a misty, rainy autumn morning.

2.) Stay Where You Play

This is a tip I stole from an RV blog that I read, and it goes hand in hand with tip #1. There are four major “hubs” in Yellowstone. In each area, you will find campgrounds, hotels, shops, and restaurants. Mammoth in the northwest corner is an area of geothermal activity, rivers, waterfalls and canyons. Elk regularly wander through the village. The Norris/Madison area is also surrounded by geothermal wonders and in close proximity to Old Faithful. In my experience, this is the most crowded area of the park. The West Thumb/Fishing Bridge area is where I stayed on my visit. Fishing Bridge has the only full-hookup RV sites in the park. The area is adjacent to Yellowstone Lake and there are good wildlife viewing opportunities north in the Hayden Valley and east toward the Bighorn Pass. The Canyon Village/Tower area is the place to be for access to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, numerous other waterfalls, and the closest hub to the more remote Lamar Valley wildlife viewing opportunities. Keep in mind that you will likely see wildlife throughout the park, but certain areas provide better odds for certain species. Here is a link to a map that will give you an idea of how these places are situated.

Bison at the Yellowstone River

A wild bison browses near the bank of the Yellowstone River at Sunset. Herds of bison are ubiquitous in Yellowstone National Park in Northwestern Wyoming.

3.) Bring a Telephoto Lens

If you want to photograph wildlife, especially the large animals such as bears, bison and elk, you will need a long lens. With all the stories in the news lately about people getting too close to wildlife, I can’t emphasize this enough. Even if you happen to find yourself in close proximity to a wild animal, you put yourself and the animal in danger by lingering to take photos. When I visited, I observed too many people getting too close to wild animals, including bears. Stay back and zoom in.

Grizzly

A large adult grizzly bear in the forest at Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.

4.) Slow Down and Enjoy the Wonder

Again, this relates back to tip #1. If you don’t give yourself enough time, you end up being one of those stressed out, speeding, tailgating drivers who endanger the wildlife and other drivers. There will be times when you will get stuck in a “bison jam.” There will be times when parking lots are full and you can’t go where you wanted. Relax, take a deep breath and look around you. The place is amazing, even if it didn’t go exactly as you planned.

Orange Spring Mound

Yellowstone’s Orange Spring Mound is a large travertine mound created by the buildup of dissolved minerals, pushed to the surface by the geothermal activity of Mammoth Hot Springs.

5.) Get Up Early

Especially if you want to visit some of the more popular sights, like Old Faithful, you will find they are less crowded early in the morning than later in the day. As a bonus, the natural light for taking photos is generally better either just after sunrise, or just before sunset. This is more of a general tip for all National Parks and all photography, but it is worth mentioning.

These are just a few of the things I learned during my visit. If I go back, I will likely try to spend a few days in each major area, rather than try to see it all from one base. Or I will plan multiple trips focused on certain areas. A place as vast and full of wonder as Yellowstone cannot be fully appreciated in a hurry. Instead of trying to see it all, decide what you want to see most, and spend some time lingering. You’ll be glad you did.

Questions and comments are always appreciated.

I need your help.

I need your help.

After spending the last month back in my home town with family and friends, and doing a lot of work on my motor home, I’m beginning to realize I’ve taken some things for granted. When I set out on this journey, almost a year ago, I was very diligent about making sure my “home” was in tip top mechanical shape. I bought new tires, had the brakes overhauled, and got a clean bill of health on it from a reliable mechanic. But, the combination of little leaks, minor problems, and some brutal wind on the way to my current destination has been something of a wake-up call regarding the integrity of the coach. It’s not that I didn’t expect some issues when I set out in a 20 year old motor home, but I did expect it would last me for at least 3 or 4 years. Considering the latest issues, the mortality of this RV would appear to be approaching sooner than I thought.

Cathedral of the Moon; Full Moon in the Cathedral; Sedona Moon; sedona az; arizona; red rock country; cathedral rock; full moon; sunset; evening; light; spires; pillars; desert southwest; unforgettable; vortex; spiritual; nature; natural; orange; red; sky; formation; rocks; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Night begins to fall on Cathedral Rock in Sedona, Arizona as the full moon rises.

I’ve really grown to love this lifestyle over the past year, and I will do whatever I can to continue. And here’s where I’m asking for help from you, my friends and fans. I’m either going to need some serious (meaning expensive) repairs done to this home on wheels, or I’m going to have to replace it with a newer (used) one. I have some savings set aside, but it’s not enough. So I’m calling on everyone who likes my work and would like to see this journey continue, to please show my portfolio to as many people as you can. Especially if you happen to know someone who has decision making power regarding the decorating of corporate, government, or business offices, as this is where most of the sales of my prints come from. I offer discounts for multiple prints and I’m also open to licensing agreements. Here is the link: Loree’s Portfolio

good morning; sunrise; dawn; clouds; upward; outward; sun; rays; island; wizard island; crater lake; national park; oregon; or; scene; scenic; breathtaking; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; nature; natural; Loree Johnson

Good Morning Crater Lake

I will continue to make the repairs I can as they are needed, but at some point, it’s going to go beyond my DIY ingenuity. It’s possible that it already has. Rest assured, my safety is not at risk, but the livability of this home of mine is coming into question. I will do whatever it takes to continue until I cannot any more.

Colorado Light; sunlight; clouds; sunset; high mountain road; western slope; gunnison county co; glory rays; god rays; crepuscular rays; sun; sunburst; curve; drive; into the sunset; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Sunlight and clouds just before sunset as seen from a high mountain road somewhere on Colorado’s western slope.

I also know that things have a way of working out just as they are supposed to, so I’m paying attention to whatever life brings my way. If I’ve learned anything over the years, it’s that these bumps in the road inevitably turn out to be opportunities in disguise. I’m already keeping my eyes open for an affordable, but newer motor home. I’m already looking around at the cost of repairs. I will do whatever I can to continue down this road (pun intended), including asking for help from everyone out there who reads this blog. Help me get my photos in front of as many eyes as possible and help me continue doing what I believe I was meant to do. Thank you so much for your support.

Fall at Multnomah Falls; peak; splendor; autumn; glory; glorious; colors; colorful; entrance; Mutlnomah Falls; Oregon; or; scene; scenic; Columbia River Gorge; historic; waterfall; leaves; leaf; trees; beauty; beautiful; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

The peak splendor of autumn in all it’s glorious colors at the entrance to Multnomah Falls in Oregon’s scenic Columbia River Gorge.

 

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