Finding My Way Home – Welcome to Washington

Finding My Way Home – Welcome to Washington

Hello and thanks so much for visiting. Welcome to Washington is the third installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

By now I’m starting to notice not only that wi-fi is difficult to come by, but sometimes I can’t even get cell phone service. How will I upload all the great photos I’m taking? How will I keep my blog up to date so my readers can follow my adventures in real time? How will I let my children know where I am and that I’m okay? How will I make reservations for campsites, especially in areas I know will be busy and in high demand? My pre-trip research had failed to yield an affordable, portable internet solution so I’ve decided to wing it. I’m now learning exactly what that means. For now, I’m too excited to worry about it because the next stop is on my list of “places-I’ve-never-been-but-really-want-to-see-and-photograph.”

Part of the John Day Fossill Beds National Monument, the painted hills in northeastern Oregon are a unique and beautiful sight. The colorful geology of these hills have made them one of the seven wonders of Oregon. Here, they are seen on a cloudy day just after a rainstorm.
“Oregon’s Painted Hills”

Thanks in large part to an ad campaign by the state of Oregon called “The Seven Wonders of Oregon,” I am headed to the John Day Fossil Beds and the Painted Hills in the far eastern part of the state. The ad campaign worked really well on me. I had never even heard of this place before the state started airing its commercials, and while I plan to take photographs everywhere I go and all along the way, I have certain destinations chosen especially with photography in mind. This is the first of them and I am very excited about it.

This part of Oregon is so sparsely populated and remote, I can only find two RV parks listed anywhere near the places I want to photograph. I decide on The Fish House Inn and RV Park in Dayville, Oregon, which seems like an odd name for a place in the middle of the desert. After driving for what seems like forever on a remote, narrow, winding highway, we finally pull in to town. Dayville is one of the cutest little villages ever. The Fish House is a great place with a total of only seven RV spaces, all with full hookups and grassy lawn.

Cathedral Rock in John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Oregon.
“Cathedral Rock”

John Day Fossil Beds is a national monument with three distinctly separate units. The unit that includes the photogenic Painted Hills is about fifty miles from Dayville, requiring some planning to get there when the light is right. We decide to visit only the Painted Hills Unit and the Sheep Rock Unit, since the Clarno Unit is a much farther drive. Both units are extremely interesting and photogenic. As is typical for the Pacific Northwest in autumn, it has been raining intermittently since we left Lava Beds. We arrive at the Painted Hills just as the rain stops. The moisture helps intensify the colorful, ancient landscape against the gloomy, gray sky. At this point, I’ve been on the road less than two weeks and it already feels like living a dream.

Sunset over the Columbia River in Pasco, Washington.
“Columbia River Sunset”

One of the reasons we’ve chosen to start off in this direction is because it leads us to Chris’s mom. They have some family financial business to deal with that can best be handled in person. So, we make our way to Pasco, Washington. As we arrive, the sunset is painting the wide open sky with an unbelievable palette of gold, orange, pink, purple and red. I want to find a place away from all the obstructions where I can photograph this stunning spectacle. Welcome to Washington. But alas, I have to hurry to get parked and set up before dark. Backing in to a driveway on a residential street proves difficult and stressful. After several attempts and a lot of coaching, I manage to get parked. This is the first time I have stayed in a friend’s driveway. Not having water and sewer hookups is a little inconvenient, but access to the house for bathroom, shower and laundry needs makes up for it. Plus, you can’t beat the price—free!

There’s nothing like moving from a 2000 square foot space to a 240 square foot space to teach you how to let go of things, but some habits die hard. While not exactly a reality-TV-level hoarder, I do have a habit of keeping things for the reason “I might need it someday.” After two weeks on the road, I’ve discovered it’s best to wait till someday to acquire what I need. Until then, extraneous stuff must go. Spatial efficiency must trump frugality. To this end, a TV mount will replace the small table I had been using as a TV stand. What a relief it will be to just let the TV ride instead of taking it down and packing it away every time I move the motor home. And how nice not to trip over that table any more.

Full moon reflecting in the Columbia River over the Cable Bridge in Kennewick, Washington.
“Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge”

The fabulous sunsets here, which seem to happen almost every day, are a photographer’s dream. The landscape is wide open with only a few hills on the distant horizon, making the sky and clouds the dominant scenery. Not only that, there are numerous bridges and lots of water, which makes for great sunset vantage points and heavenly reflections. After checking my sun and moon app, I decide to find a place on the levee to shoot the full moon rising over the photogenic Cable Bridge. I arrive at my chosen spot well in advance of moonrise, only to find another photographer already there. I set up my tripod behind and to the left of him so as not to interfere with his shot. As we both wait for the moon to rise over the bridge, we chat about photography and life in general. I tell him I am embarking on a full time RV life and my next stop is the Columbia Gorge. He tells me of a beautiful lake near the gorge that is a must for photographers. The full moon over the bridge scene exceeds my expectations and the generous sharing of information has made my day. I head back to the RV feeling like I just won the lottery.

While we are in the area, Chris and I both want to visit Palouse Falls. What a fantastic experience it is. From the car, the Palouse appears to be endless rolling farmland. One would never expect a canyon hundreds of feet deep and a 200 foot waterfall in the middle of all that seemingly “flat” landscape.

Palouse Falls is a Washington state park in the southeastern part of the state. Here, the Palouse River plunges nearly two hundred feet (61 meters) into a deep gorge scoured out of volcanic basalt. At the top of the falls, to the left, is a craggy formation known as Castle Rock. The scene is an infinite wonder of detail and texture.
“Palouse Falls”

After a couple weeks in Pasco, and especially after talking with the local photographer about the Columbia Gorge, I’m getting antsy to move on. I start making calls to find a place to stay. My plan is to make my next stay a month, so I know state parks are not an option. I must find a private RV park that allows monthly stays and has availability. After many calls and no luck, I’m starting to think I may have to either settle for a shorter stay, or alter my route. Then, finally, I find a place on the Washington side of the river with a vacancy. What a relief! For those who may not be familiar with the area, the Columbia Gorge is the border between Oregon and Washington. One side of the river is in Oregon and the other side is in Washington. The middle of the river is the state line.

America’s Public Lands – Takhlakh Lake

America’s Public Lands – Takhlakh Lake

The journey to Takhlakh Lake began unexpectedly, about a month earlier, standing on a dike above the Columbia River in Kennewick, Washington. There to photograph the rise of the full moon over the Cable Bridge, I met another photographer who was there to capture the same. Both of us had plotted out the moon’s trajectory in relation to the bridge and had arrived plenty early in order to prepare and readjust, if necessary. Waiting for the moon to rise is a common theme for me, since the exact time it breaks over the horizon is dependent upon the elevation of said horizon. This uncertainty leads me to arrive and set up generally at least an hour before the moon.

Full moon rising over the Cable Bridge in Kennewick, Washington. Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge

With our tripods in place and cameras pointing in the direction of the bridge, we started to chat while we waited. The usual question “Where are you from?” started us off. This is always a tricky one for me because there is no cut and dried answer. Born in Wyoming, having lived most of my adult life in Northern California, neither of those is an honest response to the underlying premise of the question, which is “Where will you return to when you leave here?” And so began the conversation. Me explaining that I have no permanent home and had intentions to travel west to the Columbia Gorge after leaving eastern Washington. As a resident of the Tri-Cities area, my new friend was a frequent traveler to the gorge. He was happy to share suggestions for things to see and photo opportunities. That’s how I found out about Takhlakh Lake.

Full moon reflecting in the Columbia River over the Cable Bridge in Kennewick, Washington. Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge

Once I got to the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, I knew I wanted to find Takhlakh Lake and try for a photo with a reflection of Mount Adams. Google Maps told me it was approximately 60 miles to my northeast, situated within the huge Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Located in Southwest Washington State, the Gifford Pinchot National Forest encompasses 1,368,300 acres of forests, mountains, river valleys, waterfalls, and lakes. Pacific Northwest weather being what it is, I waited for a day without rain. The wait lasted two weeks. Finally, a break in the rain came, but the sky was still overcast. I decided to set out anyway, and just settle for lake photographs if Mt. Adams was not visible.

Big Spring Creek, below the falls, in Washington's Gifford Pinchot National Forest. This area of temperate rain forest in the Pacific Northwest is perpetually lush and green, the perfect setting for imagination and fairytales. Fairyland Fantasy

Sixty miles sounds like a relatively short drive, but when it’s comprised mainly of forest service roads, some paved, some not, it takes a while. Despite the gloomy weather, the drive was beautiful. A few miles from the lake, I spotted a sign that read “Big Spring Creek Falls.” Well, I’ve never been one to pass a waterfall without stopping, so a short detour was in order. The falls were spread out over three tiers, and the forest was much too thick to get a shot of the entirety of all three in one frame. The weather that was threatening my lake reflection shot was, however, perfect for waterfall images.

Big Spring Creek Falls is actually a three-tiered waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, set in a shady fairyland glen, covered in moss and ferns and very green, even in October. It's not possible to photograph all three tiers in the same image, so it's more like three small unique waterfalls. Big Spring Creek Falls – Middle Tier

After a longer than expected side trip to the waterfall and several more miles of gravel road, plus a brief snow flurry, I finally arrived at Takhlakh Lake. It was every bit as beautiful and secluded as my friend in Kennewick had described it. From the parking lot, there was access to a lakeside trail that followed the shore. I set out to find a location from which to shoot some images of this pristine alpine lake. When I found a fallen tree with its top pointing in the direction of the far shore, that was it. I set up the tripod and started to decide which settings I would use, when I noticed it was getting lighter. I looked up, and couldn’t believe what I saw. Mt. Adams was appearing before my eyes as the clouds began to lift! And thanks to the stormy weather, there was a pure white blanket of fresh snow on the mountain!

"Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams" by Loree Johnson Photography. This image is part of the artist's specially selected Premium Collection of distinctive images. As the remains of an autumn snowstorm slowly clear, majestic Mount Adams, wearing a fresh blanket of snow, is unveiled by the retreating clouds. The gorgeous, mirror-like reflection in Takhlakh Lake, would seem unreal if not for the mist rising from the far shore. Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams

Days when everything comes together perfectly are rare, and this was one of those rare, unforgettable days, more than a month in the making. America’s public lands are truly our greatest national treasure. Thank you for visiting them with me in this series of articles. And I hope you will join me in supporting those who are dedicated to keeping them public for generations to come. See you on the next adventure!

Mount Adams reflected in Takhlakh Lake in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Fresh snow has just fallen and the trees are still frosted. Mount Adams Doubled

 

Wildlife Photography is like gambling

Wildlife Photography is like gambling

Once in a while, you hit a jackpot, and that’s what keeps you hooked. I had one of those jackpot days at the Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge recently. It all started when I pulled into the parking lot and got out of my car.

Good Omen; Buteo jamaicensis; regal; raptor; bird of prey; Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge; Washington; wa; Columbia River Gorge; NWR; red tailed hawk; redtail; fly; flight; soar; wild; wildlife; bird; nature; natural; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Good Omen

Before I even reached the beginning of the trail, this red tailed hawk showed up as if to welcome me. It flew directly over my head and I barely had time to aim my camera. As I began to make my way down the mile-long trail, I spotted a Northern Harrier hunting in the marsh. I watched it for a while, hoping it would fly within range of my lens, but since it didn’t, I continued down the trail. I reached a bridge that went across a creek in a wooded glen. I noticed a disturbance in the water and stopped to see what might emerge.

Muskrat; Ondatra zibethicus; Gibbons Creek Art Trail; Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge; NWR; creature; water; swim; swimming; cute; furry; wild; wildlife; nature; natural; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Muskrat

It was a first for me to see a wild muskrat and it conjured up memories of that old Captain and Tennille song. After making my way slowly through the wooded area, on alert for more creatures, I came to a bridge over the end of a shallow lake. Out in the lake was a great blue heron. I kept my eye on it while I crossed to the other side of the bridge where the light was better. I saw it holding something in it’s beak and shaking it. It took a little while before I realized it had a snake!

Snake Falls Prey to Blue Heron; Blue Heron Catching a Snake; Ardea herodias; prey; large; wading; bird; marsh; Washington; wa; steigerwald lake national wildlife refuge; columbia river gorge; wild; nature; natural; wildlife; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Snake Falls Prey to Blue Heron

I stayed there watching the spectacle until the bird finally flew away with its prize. At this point I thought, well, this has been a good day. I didn’t hope or expect to see anything as exciting. So, at the next viewpoint with a bench, I sat down to have a drink of water and take in the beautiful view of the peak of Mount Hood rising up over the walls of the Columbia River Gorge. Just as I was about to attempt a landscape photograph with no tripod and a telephoto lens, I noticed a large bird soaring in the distance. When I looked through the lens, I couldn’t believe I was watching a bald eagle flying right in front of my view of the mountain.

Bald Eagle and Mt. Hood; Mount Hood; Columbia River Gorge; Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge; NWR; snow; capped; covered; backdrop; Washington; wa; nature; natural; scene; scenic; flight; flying; bird; bird of prey; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Bald Eagle and Mount Hood

It was just about then that I knew this day was one of those “jackpots” of wildlife photography. And I hadn’t even reached the end of the trail yet. So on I walked. When I reached the end of the trail, I saw something that finally made me realize why it’s called the Gibbons Creek Art Trail. There are works of art all along the trail. I had been so captivated by the wildlife, I barely noticed the art.

gibbons creek art trail; seigerwald lake national wildlife refuge; washington; wa; NWR; hike; nature; natural; wildlife; art; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Gibbons Creek Art Trail

And now it was time to walk back on the same trail I had just traversed. Thinking I must have seen it all by now, I walked a bit more quickly. But, I slowed down on the way through the wooded glen. As I looked carefully through the tall grass, I spotted something that looked like an interesting piece of wood on the other side of the creek. Upon closer inspection, it turned out to be an American Bittern staying very still in hopes of not being seen.

American Bittern Spotlighted; Botaurus lentiginosus; Gibbons Creek Art Trail; Steigerwald Lake National Wildlife Refuge; NWR; Washington; wa; Columbia River Gorge; bird; heron; statue; still; on stage; pose; nature; natural; wild; wildlife; reflection; reflect; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

American Bittern Spotlighted

I know first hand how difficult it is to find and photograph these birds because they lived in a tree in my back yard in Yreka for years and I never got one good photograph of them. By now, I was like an addict looking for my next fix. I hadn’t had such a good wildlife day since winter at the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge.

Then, just a bit farther up the trail, I saw this.

seeing double; doe; black-tailed; deer; mule deer; buck; small; wild; wildlife; nature; natural; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Seeing Double

A beautiful doe. But wait, what’s that behind her? A young buck hiding in the tall grass. I saw much more that day, including Northern Flickers, Stellers Jays, and American Kestrels. If you want to see them all, click on the Galleries tab at the top of the page and look through the What’s New gallery. So now that I’ve had a good dose of wildlife photography, I’m ready for more landscapes. And being in the Columbia River Gorge, beautiful landscapes abound. But don’t worry, like a compulsive gambler, I will come back to wildlife eventually–because I’m hooked.

Beauty in unexpected places.

Beauty in unexpected places.

When my traveling companion told me he needed to spend a couple of weeks in Pasco, Washington to take care of some business, I was less than thrilled. I googled the place and saw that there are a couple of wildlife refuges nearby, so I figured I would occupy myself by going out and shooting some wildlife while he sorted out his business dealings, and bide my time until we got to the Columbia Gorge. I had no idea what I was about to discover. Pasco is one of the “tri-cities,” here in Washington, the other two being Richland and Kennewick. The beautiful and mighty Columbia River runs through the middle of it all. But, that’s not even the best part. The best part is the sunsets! Oh my, the sunsets! On the day we arrived, we pulled in at sunset. I was lamenting the fact that I had to unhook the car, park and level the RV and get settled in when I’d rather be shooting that marvelous sunset. Little did I know, they have marvelous sunsets here all the time. Maybe not every day, but certainly more often than not.

columbia river sunset; pasco; washington; wa; water; reflection; smooth; wide; colorful; evening; dusk; virga; orange; red; pink; scene; scenic; nature; natural; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Columbia River Sunset

And with all that beautiful water for reflections, and the bridges……*sigh*

Blue Bridge at Sunset; pasco; kenniwick; washington; wa; columbia river; evening; dusk; reflection; connect; water; scene; scenic; colorful; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Blue Bridge at Sunset

The lunar eclipse also happened while we were here, but being kind of a wimp about getting up at two o’clock in the morning, I decided to shoot the moonrise instead. And, wouldn’t you know it, the clouds held off that night so the moon could be seen. There was some smoke in the sky, but it made the scene a bit more colorful.

Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge; Kennewick; Washington; wa; Pasco; Tri-Cities; Columbia River; Ed Hendler Bridge; water; reflection; pastel; pink; architecture; lighthouse; dusk; sunset; evening; scene; scenic; full moon; lunar; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge

Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge; Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge; Kennewick; Washington; wa; Pasco; Tri-Cities; Columbia River; Ed Hendler Bridge; water; reflection; pastel; pink; architecture; lighthouse; dusk; sunset; evening; scene; scenic; full moon; lunar; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge

I was not the only photographer on the levy that evening. There was a very nice local photographer also there for the moonrise. We chatted while waiting for the moon and he shared some of his favorite photo destinations in and around the Columbia Gorge. So now I have even more potentially wonderful places to visit over the next month.

But for now, I’m quite happy and grateful about the bit of serendipity that landed me here and gave me the opportunity to appreciate the beauty of this particular place. Did I mention the bridges?

Window of Light; gap; clouds; horizon; blue bridge; Pasco; Kennewick; Washington; columbia river; bright; firey; glow; scene; scenic; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Window of Light

And just now, as I sit here typing this, I’m looking out the window and seeing the potential for yet another completely amazing and wonderfully unique sunset. I may just have to head down to the river!

serenity; cotton candy; clouds; reflected; calm; water; columbia river; sunset; evening; dusk; peace; tranquility; beauty; pastel; pink; blue; weather; nature; natural; Kennewick; Pasco; Washington; wa; scene; scenic; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Serenity

Oh, and I have visited one of the wildlife refuges, and have done some wildlife photography. I plan to visit the other one before I leave here next week. But, that subject will have to wait until the next update because this one is all about the sunsets!

 

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