Finding My Way Home – Red Rock Deserts

Finding My Way Home – Red Rock Deserts

Red Rock Deserts is the ninth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

The Fire Wave is a pink and white sandstone formation in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada.
“Fire Wave”

I’ve been in California since the beginning of the year and now April is almost half over. Time for a new state. Hello Nevada. In looking for a place between Shoshone, California and Zion National Park, it made sense to stop at one of the campgrounds on Lake Mead. Now Luna can finally have a swim. I made a reservation at Echo Bay Resort. Upon arrival, it was clear that this place was once a great lakeside resort, but now is just an “echo” of what it once was. There is a hotel, restaurant, and marina—all abandoned and decaying because of the retreat of the shoreline over the years. Everything that was once on the shore of the lake is now a mile or two away from the water. The only thing left of the resort is the convenience store and the RV park. Most of the people staying here are snowbirds who come for the winter and leave in the summer. Many are fishermen with boats. They have to drive miles to launch since the boat ramp here has not been functional for many years. The park itself could stand some upkeep and maintenance. We end up moving after the first night to another site because the electricity won’t stay on. It is however, relatively easy to access the shoreline, if you don’t mind walking or driving a ways. Luna doesn’t mind at all, and looks forward to her swim pretty much every day of the week we are here.

Luna the yellow lab, doing what she does best--swim!
“Born to Swim”

I’m starting to fall in love with the red rock desert. A lovely day trip to the Valley of Fire State Park only deepens my love. Trails filled with petroglyphs, interesting rock formations and vistas of candy colored ridges keep us occupied for longer than anticipated. One of the greatest things about red rock landscapes is how they color the clouds pale pink by reflection. At first, I thought there was a color cast in my photographs. But then I noticed that my eyes see it as well as my camera. It’s like a little bit of sunset color in the sky all day.

Arch Rock is a natural sandstone arch created by the forces of erosion in the red rock desert of Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada.
“Arch Rock”

Now it’s on to southern Utah and more red rock desert. I’ve secured a month at Willow Wind RV Park in Hurricane, Utah. The locals don’t pronounce it like the tropical storm. Instead they say “hurrakin,” which I find somewhat amusing. I’m learning about desert terminology, like arroyos and washes. They are actually the same thing, but the name changes depending on what state you are in. These are small “rivers” which are almost always dry, except when they fill up during and after a rain, transforming into a rushing waterway. There are also slot canyons, which are sort of the same thing, but much narrower and carved in rock.

A black-chinned hummingbird (Archilochus alexandri) in flight.
“Black-chinned Hummingbird Portrait”

There are so many places to explore in the immediate area, I find myself wondering if a month will be enough. In addition to Zion National Park, there are Sand Hollow and Quail Creek State Parks, both of which are centered around lakes. Another must-see place nearby is the Red Cliffs Recreation Area, which is part of the larger Red Cliffs National Conservation Area. Also, between Hurricane and Zion is the Hurricane Mesa and the LaVerkin Overlook, which is an overlook of a deep gorge cut by the Virgin River. Since I’m staying for a month, I decide to hang a hummingbird feeder at the RV so I can keep my wildlife skills sharp. Plus, I just enjoy watching them.

Towers of the Virgin and the West Temple at Zion National Park revealed at dawn as the clouds ascend the cliffs.
“Revelation”

Chris and I have many different interests, which sometimes lead us in different directions. I am always looking for photographic opportunities, while he is often researching the history of an area in order to write about it. As a result, we spend a good share of our days doing things separately, on our own. One such day, I am already back from Zion National Park, where I had gone pre-sunrise to shoot photos, when Chris arrives back at the RV. He tells me he’s reserved an afternoon helicopter tour of the area surrounding Zion. I am welcome to come if I want. Having had a fear of heights my whole life, my first reaction is thanks, but no thanks. He says he understands, but the reservation is not for another week, so if I change my mind, let him know.

Aerial view of a cliff face at the top of Kolob Terrace in Zion National Park, Utah. Spring rains have resulted in a lush green landscape in the southern Utah desert highlighted by sunlight breaking through a light cloud cover.
“Above Kolob Terrace”

I can’t stop thinking about how amazing the photographs would be from a helicopter. I find myself reading and posting online about which lenses and settings one would use if one were to, hypothetically of course, shoot from a helicopter. The enthusiasm of other photographers regarding aerial photography is contagious, and I soon find myself considering the flight. By the time the day arrives, I have talked myself into it. Chris calls an hour in advance to confirm the reservation, but they break the bad news that the wind is too strong for flying and reschedule it for the next day. Great, another day to fret about it.

Red Butte is an 1800 ft. pyramid shaped monolith in the red rock desert just outside Zion National Park's Kolob Canyons area. It is home to a natural arch, which is seldom seen except from the air. In this aerial photograph, you can see the arch on the left side of the mountain, opposite the hoodoos on the right.
“Red Butte from the Air”

The next day is windy again, but as the day wears on, the wind begins to subside. The reschedule has pushed it to a later time slot than originally booked, which means we will be going up just before sunset. Since the wind is calm and the temperature warm, Chris asks if they could remove the doors of the helicopter. I’ve heard this is the only way to get clear, sharp photos without interference from the reflective glass, but I admit this scares me. They also weigh us both so the pilot knows exactly how much weight is in the craft. I hurry to explain how the camera around my neck probably accounts for, oh, say about fiftyish pounds of what their scale is reading. Luckily, they laugh with me and don’t require the camera be weighed separately.

Smithsonian Butte is a 6632 ft. mountain situated just south of Zion National Park and just west of the Canaan Mountain Wilderness in southern Utah. In this aerial photograph, you see the top of Smithsonian Butte in the foreground and the cliffs of Zion Canyon in the background.
“Smithsonian Butte from Above”

Now, it’s the moment of truth. We’re done with the weighing and signing of waivers and safety instructions. We’re actually walking out to the helipad and boarding the craft. My stomach is in my throat. They strap us in with five-point safety harnesses and fit us with headsets and we are on our way up. As the little building we just came from gets smaller and smaller I take a deep breath and notice how thrilling this is. The excitement has overtaken the fear, at least for now. I start aiming and shooting as the pilot tells me over the headset about landmarks and other points of interest. Chris is filming the red rock desert with his video camera, but I have almost forgotten he is there. He’s telling the pilot where he wants to go and what he wants to see, but I am just listening and shooting. I can’t remember a more electrifying photo shoot, ever. I don’t know if it is the harness, which has me feeling very secure, or the breathtaking views, but my fear has almost entirely disappeared. I’m a flying photographer!

Aerial view of Zion Canyon in Zion National Park, Utah. From the ground, this place is hard to believe. From the air, it's almost unfathomable.
“This is Zion”

All too soon, our half-hour comes to and end and we are landing back on the helipad we started from. Now I have a memory card full of aerial photographs. And my own memory has a once in a lifetime, unforgettable experience that I never could have imagined in my wildest dreams.

The area surrounding Zion National Park in southern Utah is filled with geologic wonders. Pastry Ridge is an example of deep erosion scouring many layers of colorful sandstone over millions of years. The result is something that looks like a pastry from above. This image is part of a collection of aerial images taken on a helicopter tour of the Hurricane area in Washington County, Utah.
“Pastry Ridge”
Best of 2018

Best of 2018

It’s that time again. Time to re-live the past year, photographically speaking. What a year it’s been! It’s always difficult to narrow down my favorites to just ten, but this year was even more challenging because of all the wonderful photographic opportunities that came my way. Following are my personal favorites of 2018, which are not necessarily the best sellers or most popular of the year.

10. Desert Bighorn

"Desert Bighorn" by Loree Johnson Photography. The elusive desert bighorn sheep watchful from atop a ridge at Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Nevada.
Desert Bighorn

When picking personal favorites, I lean toward the unusual or unique. While this image is not really either, it was my very first sighting of one of these elusive animals, so it qualifies as both for me.

9. Pheasant Away

"Pheasant Away" by Loree Johnson Photography. This ring necked pheasant rooster (Phasianus colchicus) gives a detailed look at his gorgeous plumage as he quickly flies away. Photographed at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Pheasant Away

When I shot this photo, I was disappointed that the bird flew directly away from me. Usually, “bird butt” photos end up on the cutting room floor. But, when I saw the detail of the plumage and that fantastic curl at the end of the tail, I knew this was a keeper.

8. Winter Solstice – Signal Peak, Utah

"Winter Solstice - Signal Peak, Utah" by Loree Johnson Photography. Sunrise on December 21st, 2018 lights up the peaks of the Pine Valley Mountains. Signal Peak is the highest peak in the range.
Winter Solstice – Signal Peak, Utah

While staying in Hurricane, Utah, I noticed how the rising sun lit up the mountains most mornings. Hoping to catch the light when clouds were present, I set out before dawn on the morning of the Winter Solstice to an unobstructed viewpoint I had discovered a few days earlier. Nature kindly gave me the sky I was hoping for.

7. Owl Scowl

"Owl Scowl" by Loree Johnson Photography. Great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) with a scowl on its face, perched in a tree at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Owl Scowl

What can I say? 2018 was the Year of the Owl for me. There are four owl images in my top ten this year, and honestly, I probably could have done a top ten of just the owls. This is one of the newly fledged youngsters hanging around Malheur National Wildlife Refuge when I arrived to volunteer in July.

6. Glorious Whitney

"Glorious Whitney" by Loree Johnson Photography. Spectacular sunset over Mount Whitney in California's Eastern Sierra, as seen through boulders in the Alabama Hills. Crepuscular rays, commonly known as God rays, illuminate the sky above the highest peak in the contiguous United States, creating the effect of a crown.
Glorious Whitney

Working around the availability of RV sites and a list of destinations during the month of October resulted in an eight day stay at Lone Pine, California. For the first six days, there wasn’t a single cloud in the sky. Then, one afternoon, magic happened.

5. Barn Owl Hiding

"Barn Owl Hiding" by Loree Johnson Photography. Barn owl (Tyto alba) hiding among the tree branches at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Barn Owl Hiding

While volunteering at Malheur NWR this summer, I was told of a pair of barn owls spotted along the auto tour route several miles south of headquarters. Since this bird was missing from my life list and had eluded me for many years, I set out early in the morning for two mornings in hopes of a sighting. Both times, I came back owl-less. The second time, I accepted the disappointment, ate breakfast, and took the dog for a walk. On our walk, we spooked a large bird from a tree near the RV. Turns out it was a barn owl! I felt almost as if my longing to see one called it to me.

4. Painted by God

"Painted by God" by Loree Johnson Photography. Clouds appear as brush strokes in the sky as they reflect the last light of the setting sun over the Pacific Ocean. Photographed at Sunset Bay, Oregon.
Painted by God

While traveling up the Oregon Coast this spring, I stayed a few days at Sunset Bay. Given the name of the place, I had to go down to the beach for sunset at least one time. While waiting for the sun to set, I noticed some unusual, wispy clouds out on the horizon and wondered what effect they would have on the sunset. As the sky began to take on color, those clouds transformed into “brushstrokes” over the rocks that took my breath away! It was one of the most amazing sunsets I have ever witnessed, and now I know how the place got its name.

3. Burrowing Owl Joy

"Burrowing Owl Joy" by Loree Johnson Photography. Burrowing owl fledgling (Athene cunicularia) celebrating its newly discovered ability to fly. Photographed near Burns, Oregon.
Burrowing Owl Joy

The first time I set out to find the burrowing owls near Burns, Oregon, I really didn’t know what to expect. I found them in the morning, and the sun was behind them, making photography challenging. A week or so later, I went back in the evening. Not only was the light great, but the fledglings were flying around, practicing landings and takeoffs, and generally having an owl party. What a joy it was to watch them.

2. Last Light on the Watchman

"Last Light on The Watchman" by Loree Johnson Photography. As the sun sets at Zion National Park, The Watchman catches its last glow, while the Virgin River reflects the light. A light dusting of snow on the peaks indicates that winter has arrived in the desert southwest.
Last Light on The Watchman

If you’ve ever visited Zion National Park, you’ve seen the crowds of photographers gathered on the bridge at Canyon Junction at sunset. This is one of the iconic views in the park that everyone wants to capture. Because of this, I have avoided that bridge each time I have visited. This year I happened to be there on a cold winter day when only two other photographers were on the bridge, so I decided to go for it. I couldn’t have asked for a better sunset, but was wishing I had remembered to bring my gloves. Cold fingers aside, it was a fortunate decision.

1. Flasher

"Flasher" by Loree Johnson Photography. Great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) holding its wings open while perched in a cottonwood tree. Photographed at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Flasher

It’s only fitting that the number one image for my Year of the Owl is an owl. There were several that could have gotten the honor, but this one wins for the unusual pose and that mischievous expression. I already miss the owls who allowed me to spend time with them and photograph them this summer. And I look forward to discovering what 2019 has in store.

Happy New Year and thank you for taking the time to indulge my “top ten” ramblings!

America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

From the moment I arrived in the quiet little town of Bluff, in the southeastern part of Utah, I had the sense that I had stumbled upon a little-known area of scenic wonders and sacred history. My usual practice of asking the RV park operator for suggestions of things to see and do in the area yielded a list too abundant to possibly complete in my one-week scheduled visit. Having just spent several days in Monument Valley, witnessing some of the most breathtaking views the four-corners region has to offer, I was not expecting to be stunned. I was in for a surprise!

Bluff, Utah Bluff, Utah  Est. 650 A.D.

One of the first things I noticed is that the “Bluffoons” (as the locals like to call themselves) have a wicked sense of humor, along with a mighty sense of pride in the long history of the area.

Loree Johnson Photography; House on Fire; Utah; anasazi; mule canyon; ancient; ruins; cliff dwellings; sandstone; desert southwest; flame; blanding ut; cedar mesaThese Anasazi ruins in Utah’s Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the “House on Fire” ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.

Having seen photographs of the House on Fire, I wanted to see it with my own eyes. It was not easy to find. After much searching on the internet, and quizzing a few locals, I found what seemed to be the correct trail through BLM land in the Mule Canyon area. I remember thinking to myself how strange it was that such a unique place was so little-known and sparsely visited. I spent a morning hiking to the ruins and a couple of hours there taking in the energy of the place without ever seeing another person. It felt as though I had connected with the spirit of the ancient people who built it.

The Other Monument Valley; the lady in the bathtub; valley of the gods; southern ut; utah; monument valley; remote; buttes; mesas; balancing rocks; erosion; desert southwest; four corners; inspiring; beautiful; surreal; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson A sandstone butte in Valley of the Gods known as The Lady in the Bathtub. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley.

Another place I decided to visit, per suggestion of the RV park management, was Valley of the Gods. Wow! Some people refer to it as “the other Monument Valley.” The terrain is very similar, but the access road is better–as long as it hasn’t rained recently. I was able to navigate the entire 17 mile scenic drive in my compact two-wheel drive car. I only saw a handful of other people while there, including a few people who were camping.

sail away; battleship rock; valley of the gods; southern ut; utah; monument valley; remote; buttes; mesas; balancing rocks; erosion; desert southwest; four corners; inspiring; beautiful; surreal; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson Battleship Rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah.

The sandstone buttes in Valley of the Gods are every bit as majestic and breathtaking as the more famous formations in Monument Valley. And once again, I found myself wondering how this amazing place was so unknown by so many.

During my too-short visit to the area, I was unaware that it had been under consideration for National Monument status for over two years. Looking back at the wonder I experienced, I was thrilled when I heard the news that President Obama had designated the Bears Ears National Monument.

Not only that, but five tribal nations are represented by a council whose responsibility is to advise federal agencies regarding administration of the monument. It is the first time in our history that Native Americans have been given authoritative input into the management of the lands their ancestors occupied. The area is home to abundant numbers of burial grounds and cliff dwellings, which have lately been the target of “pot hunters.” A term used to describe those who scavenge the ruins for artifacts and sell them illegally. The Antiquities Act (which is the authority used by the President to designate the monument) was written expressly for the purpose of protecting such artifacts and historic dwellings.

Bluff Sunset; light; bluff ut; utah; desert southwest; end of the day; glow; momentary; clouds; storm; tiny town; last light; four corners; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree JohnsonAs the sun sets on the tiny town of Bluff, Utah, the bluffs which give the town its name light up in the glow of the days last light. Storm clouds above the bluffs take on a momentary golden glow.

This new Bears Ears National Monument is long overdue, and should prove to be economically beneficial to the little towns like Bluff, where they seemed to me to be trying to convince the tourists to stay a while, rather than blast through on the way north to Canyonlands and Arches. There is indeed, much worth seeing in this remote section of Utah. And I am happy that it will be protected for future generations to appreciate, and even for me to visit again.

Pin It on Pinterest