public lands Archives - Loree Johnson Photography

America’s Public Lands – Malheur NWR

by Loree | Sep 17, 2018 | Deserts, Public Lands, The Vagabond Lifestyle, Wildlife

At the northernmost end of the Great Basin in western North America lies Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. Set aside in 1908 as a bird sanctuary by President Theodore Roosevelt, and added to over the century since, Malheur today consists of 187,757 acres of wildlife habitat, including Malheur, Harney and Mud Lakes, plus the Blitzen River Valley. Interestingly, in learning about the history of the Harney Basin, I discovered that we all owe a debt of gratitude to a wildlife photographer–William L. Finley. His photographs and advocacy are largely responsible for the designation, which eventually came to be a wildlife refuge, both here and in the Klamath Basin, roughly 200 miles to the south and west.

Crane Training

On this day, the fourth anniversary of the day I pulled up roots and went vagabond, it seems appropriate to look back, not only over the summer spent here, but the ever-evolving journey of life on the road. As a direct result of the 2016 election and its ensuing assault on the environment in general, and public lands in particular, my travels have morphed from a random list of desired places to see, to a more focused effort of doing a small part to help save our precious public lands for future generations. As a volunteer, I hope to add value and provide information for those who visit these extraordinary places. Over the summer, I have found Malheur to be not only a refuge for wildlife, but a respite for people. It seems almost as many visitors come here for the peace and wide open spaces as the wildlife.

Barn Owl Hiding

If you have heard of this place, it is likely because of the armed occupation that happened in January of 2016. However, there has been conflict here for well over 100 years. The competing interests of cattle ranchers, farmers and wildlife protectors have been vying for limited water and resources since the early settlers arrived in the late 1800’s. At the same time the lake was set aside as a wildlife sanctuary, the Bureau of Reclamation was busy draining wetlands in an attempt to create more agricultural land. By the 1930’s, the draining of natural marshes had caused even more damage to bird populations than the original plume hunters the sanctuary was created to protect against.

Owl Scowl

Despite many conflicts over the years, including the armed occupation of 2016, the people of Harney County have forged relationships and compromises over many years, with the deep ties to the land here as literally, common ground. As my time here winds down and I contemplate moving on, I can’t help but feel a sense of hope that the efforts of those who work hard to bring people to the table in order to hammer out agreements and accommodations is paying off.

Natural Friendship

One of the greatest gifts of volunteering at a wildlife refuge is the opportunity to learn about the history, biology and geology of the place. As year five on the road begins, I look forward to the abundance of experiences and education that await me. If you would like to help preserve and restore Malheur, consider becoming a member of the Friends of Malheur Refuge. For a more detailed look at the history of Malheur NWR, see this article.

Young Hawk Soaring

Editor’s note: It was super hard to pick just a few photos for this article. To see the entire collection of photos from this summer at Malheur click here.

The National Treasure That Almost Wasn’t

by Loree | Aug 23, 2017 | Blog, History, Mountains, National Parks, Public Lands, Wildlife

It was April 6, 1930 when the citizens of Jackson Hole, in Teton County Wyoming, and the adjacent area learned who was behind the recent and prolific purchases of land and ranches in the valley. The Snake River Land Company had spent the previous two years acquiring vast amounts of real estate in western Wyoming near the recently dedicated Grand Teton National Park. It was on that day that Wyomingites learned John D. Rockefeller Jr., a New York billionaire, was the money behind the Snake River Land Company. The nefarious motive behind the plot was to donate the land to the federal government for annexation to Grand Teton National park in order to conserve and protect it for generations to come! How dare a rich guy do something good for humanity and the environment! Of all the nerve!

Autumn Fog Below Mt. Moran

Rockefeller made good on his intentions by offering over 30,000 acres of land he had amassed as a gift to the country. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, recognizing a political hot potato when he saw it, stalled and delayed. For more than ten years, the president refused to accept the donation. Hearings were held on the local and national level, congress played politics with the plan, but they weren’t willing to act on it.

Moose on a Mission

Finally, in 1942, Rockefeller gave the president an ultimatum. He threatened to sell the land to developers if the government didn’t take it. Roosevelt, not wanting that to happen, needed a way to accept the land, without approval from congress. Using his authority under the Antiquities Act (which had previously been used only for protection of archaeological sites), he created Jackson Hole National Monument.

First Light

The predictable political ruckus ensued in congress, but that was nothing compared to what was happening in Wyoming. In a fit of outrage, the local ranchers staged a protest worthy of a Hollywood blockbuster. The locals organized a “posse.” They set out on horseback, whooping and hollering, and drove over 500 head of cattle out to graze on the newly minted National Monument. In their eyes, this egregious act of federal overreach could not stand. In the ensuing years, a bill to abolish the Monument passed both houses of congress. President Roosevelt vetoed it. At long last, in 1950, after numerous debates, and bills passing and failing, the Jackson Hole National Monument was absorbed by Grand Teton National Park.

Snake River Crossing

Cliff Hansen, the cowboy who led the rebellion over the monument, later went on to become Wyoming’s governor and a U.S. senator. He was also a big enough man to admit he was wrong. “I want you all to know that I’m glad I lost, because I now know I was wrong,” Hansen said during a luncheon in New York in 1967. “Grand Teton National Park is one of the greatest natural heritages of Wyoming and the nation and one of our great assets.”

Bull Elk Bugling

America’s Public Lands – Takhlakh Lake

by Loree | Feb 23, 2017 | Lakes, Mountains, Public Lands, Waterfalls

The journey to Takhlakh Lake began unexpectedly, about a month earlier, standing on a dike above the Columbia River in Kennewick, Washington. There to photograph the rise of the full moon over the Cable Bridge, I met another photographer who was there to capture the same. Both of us had plotted out the moon’s trajectory in relation to the bridge and had arrived plenty early in order to prepare and readjust, if necessary. Waiting for the moon to rise is a common theme for me, since the exact time it breaks over the horizon is dependent upon the elevation of said horizon. This uncertainty leads me to arrive and set up generally at least an hour before the moon.

Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge

With our tripods in place and cameras pointing in the direction of the bridge, we started to chat while we waited. The usual question “Where are you from?” started us off. This is always a tricky one for me because there is no cut and dried answer. Born in Wyoming, having lived most of my adult life in Northern California, neither of those is an honest response to the underlying premise of the question, which is “Where will you return to when you leave here?” And so began the conversation. Me explaining that I have no permanent home and had intentions to travel west to the Columbia Gorge after leaving eastern Washington. As a resident of the Tri-Cities area, my new friend was a frequent traveler to the gorge. He was happy to share suggestions for things to see and photo opportunities. That’s how I found out about Takhlakh Lake.

Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge

Once I got to the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, I knew I wanted to find Takhlakh Lake and try for a photo with a reflection of Mount Adams. Google Maps told me it was approximately 60 miles to my northeast, situated within the huge Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Located in Southwest Washington State, the Gifford Pinchot National Forest encompasses 1,368,300 acres of forests, mountains, river valleys, waterfalls, and lakes. Pacific Northwest weather being what it is, I waited for a day without rain. The wait lasted two weeks. Finally, a break in the rain came, but the sky was still overcast. I decided to set out anyway, and just settle for lake photographs if Mt. Adams was not visible.

Fairyland Fantasy

Sixty miles sounds like a relatively short drive, but when it’s comprised mainly of forest service roads, some paved, some not, it takes a while. Despite the gloomy weather, the drive was beautiful. A few miles from the lake, I spotted a sign that read “Big Spring Creek Falls.” Well, I’ve never been one to pass a waterfall without stopping, so a short detour was in order. The falls were spread out over three tiers, and the forest was much too thick to get a shot of the entirety of all three in one frame. The weather that was threatening my lake reflection shot was, however, perfect for waterfall images.

Big Spring Creek Falls – Middle Tier

After a longer than expected side trip to the waterfall and several more miles of gravel road, plus a brief snow flurry, I finally arrived at Takhlakh Lake. It was every bit as beautiful and secluded as my friend in Kennewick had described it. From the parking lot, there was access to a lakeside trail that followed the shore. I set out to find a location from which to shoot some images of this pristine alpine lake. When I found a fallen tree with its top pointing in the direction of the far shore, that was it. I set up the tripod and started to decide which settings I would use, when I noticed it was getting lighter. I looked up, and couldn’t believe what I saw. Mt. Adams was appearing before my eyes as the clouds began to lift! And thanks to the stormy weather, there was a pure white blanket of fresh snow on the mountain!

Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams

Days when everything comes together perfectly are rare, and this was one of those rare, unforgettable days, more than a month in the making. America’s public lands are truly our greatest national treasure. Thank you for visiting them with me in this series of articles. And I hope you will join me in supporting those who are dedicated to keeping them public for generations to come. See you on the next adventure!

Mount Adams Doubled

America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

by Loree | Jan 4, 2017 | Deserts, National Parks, Public Lands

From the moment I arrived in the quiet little town of Bluff, in the southeastern part of Utah, I had the sense that I had stumbled upon a little-known area of scenic wonders and sacred history. My usual practice of asking the RV park operator for suggestions of things to see and do in the area yielded a list too abundant to possibly complete in my one-week scheduled visit. Having just spent several days in Monument Valley, witnessing some of the most breathtaking views the four-corners region has to offer, I was not expecting to be stunned. I was in for a surprise!

Bluff, Utah Est. 650 A.D.

One of the first things I noticed is that the “Bluffoons” (as the locals like to call themselves) have a wicked sense of humor, along with a mighty sense of pride in the long history of the area.

These Anasazi ruins in Utah’s Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the “House on Fire” ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.

Having seen photographs of the House on Fire, I wanted to see it with my own eyes. It was not easy to find. After much searching on the internet, and quizzing a few locals, I found what seemed to be the correct trail through BLM land in the Mule Canyon area. I remember thinking to myself how strange it was that such a unique place was so little-known and sparsely visited. I spent a morning hiking to the ruins and a couple of hours there taking in the energy of the place without ever seeing another person. It felt as though I had connected with the spirit of the ancient people who built it.

A sandstone butte in Valley of the Gods known as The Lady in the Bathtub. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley.

Another place I decided to visit, per suggestion of the RV park management, was Valley of the Gods. Wow! Some people refer to it as “the other Monument Valley.” The terrain is very similar, but the access road is better–as long as it hasn’t rained recently. I was able to navigate the entire 17 mile scenic drive in my compact two-wheel drive car. I only saw a handful of other people while there, including a few people who were camping.

Battleship Rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah.

The sandstone buttes in Valley of the Gods are every bit as majestic and breathtaking as the more famous formations in Monument Valley. And once again, I found myself wondering how this amazing place was so unknown by so many.

During my too-short visit to the area, I was unaware that it had been under consideration for National Monument status for over two years. Looking back at the wonder I experienced, I was thrilled when I heard the news that President Obama had designated the Bears Ears National Monument.

Not only that, but five tribal nations are represented by a council whose responsibility is to advise federal agencies regarding administration of the monument. It is the first time in our history that Native Americans have been given authoritative input into the management of the lands their ancestors occupied. The area is home to abundant numbers of burial grounds and cliff dwellings, which have lately been the target of “pot hunters.” A term used to describe those who scavenge the ruins for artifacts and sell them illegally. The Antiquities Act (which is the authority used by the President to designate the monument) was written expressly for the purpose of protecting such artifacts and historic dwellings.

As the sun sets on the tiny town of Bluff, Utah, the bluffs which give the town its name light up in the glow of the days last light. Storm clouds above the bluffs take on a momentary golden glow.

This new Bears Ears National Monument is long overdue, and should prove to be economically beneficial to the little towns like Bluff, where they seemed to me to be trying to convince the tourists to stay a while, rather than blast through on the way north to Canyonlands and Arches. There is indeed, much worth seeing in this remote section of Utah. And I am happy that it will be protected for future generations to appreciate, and even for me to visit again.

America’s Public Lands – Bosque del Apache

by Loree | Dec 5, 2016 | Birds, Public Lands, Wildlife

On a chilly morning in early November, I crawl out of bed two hours before sunrise, knowing it will take at least an hour to reach my destination. My objective this morning is Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, a 57,331-acre preserve in south-central New Mexico administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The refuge was established in 1939 by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Each year, it’s estimated that between 10,000 and 30,000 migrating sandhill cranes come to the refuge and adjacent areas to feed and spend the winter. Geese and other waterfowl also spend the winter here, thanks to an intricate web of gates and channels which move water from the Rio Grande through fields and floodplains and back to the river, simulating the natural cycle that has been disrupted by decades of development and diversion.

Early Birds

As I exit the freeway and drive the five miles to my first stop, the anticipation starts to build, just as the light is beginning to build on the eastern horizon. The parking area near the pond comes into view and it is filled with vehicles. As I get closer, I can make out dozens of human silhouettes with tripods in front of them. Some have cameras mounted, while others support spotting scopes. Many people have cameras or binoculars on straps around their necks. Then, I see why they are there. Thousands of sandhill cranes are gathered in the shallow water around the edges of the pond. I park on the shoulder of the road, since the parking area is filled to capacity. While most of the people are either silent, or speaking in whispers, the birds are raucous and loud. The unmistakable cackling call that is unique to the species is nearly constant. The sense of wonder and awe is apparent on the faces surrounding me.

Rise and Shine

My heart is pounding with excitement as I grab my camera and find an open spot on the raised bank above the pond. The birds are beginning to fly, in small groups of four, six, eight, yet it’s still too dark for sharp images of birds in flight. Another photographer remarks to me that we need more light. I nod in agreement.

Up With the Sun

Then, the sun begins to break above the partly cloudy horizon, and suddenly flight photos are possible. As the sunrise continues, more and more birds take to the sky. The groups of cranes taking off from the pond are so frequent I hardly know which way to turn. They are flying to my right, my left, behind me, in front of me, in the distance, and just a few feet away. It’s almost dizzying as I try to decide which way to point the camera. I’m feeling good about my decision to leave the tripod in the car, but regret leaving the gloves. I can barely feel my fingers, but don’t want to take the short walk back to the car for fear I will miss the magical dawn light.

Three’s a Crowd

In less than an hour, the spectacle is over and there are only a handful of cranes left at the pond. As I return to the car, still shivering, partly from excitement and partly from cold, I realize the extra memory card I had in my hand before I set out is still on the table of my dinette–55 miles away! A quick pass through the images on my camera, deleting the ones that were too dark and out of focus, frees up some space for a drive around the auto tour route.

Snow Geese in Flight

Daylight has revealed some of the other species who call this place home. Raptors, herons, ducks and geese are awake and going about their lives amidst the ever-present and ubiquitous sandhill cranes. As I fill what’s left of the space on my camera’s memory card and head back to the place I’m calling home at the moment, there is a sense that I have experienced something very special and truly unforgettable.

Fall Heron