new mexico Archives - Loree Johnson Photography

Finding My Way Home – Being a Snowbird

by Loree | May 5, 2023 | Deserts, Finding my Way Home, The Vagabond Lifestyle

Being a Snowbird is the twenty-sixth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here . If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

The Organ Mountains rugged, craggy peaks tower over the Chihuahuan Desert in southern New Mexico, just east of Las Cruces. — ***“Organ Mountains, Las Cruces, New Mexico”***

After a thoroughly enjoyable month at Elephant Butte, New Mexico, I have planned out my next few stays in the deserts of the American Southwest. My next two stops are also in New Mexico. First up is Las Cruces, where I have reserved a week. Next, I will be heading to Rodeo, which is a very remote location way down south in the “boot heel” of the state.

I will miss my frequent visits to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, but am excited to explore new locations and get to know the desert a little better. As I pull in to Las Cruces, I’m a little surprised to see beautiful, towering mountains to the east. I ask about them at the RV park office and learn that they are the Organ Mountains, named for their resemblance to a pipe organ. I was mostly expecting flat landscapes, so I’m thrilled at the prospect of photographing the dramatic mountain range.

White Sands National Monument in New Mexico is the worlds largest gypsum dunefield. The white sand is particularly pretty when touched by the glow of the setting sun. — ***“White Sands”***

I have much to do while in this semi-large town, since services will be lacking in the remote area of Rodeo. In addition to getting a haircut and stocking up on food and supplies, I plan to make the hour drive to White Sands National Monument for more photo opportunities. I also hope to visit Old Messilla, which, although technically part of Las Cruces, is actually a historic Mexican village.

The RV park I’ve chosen is interesting in that it has been converted from a trailer park. Each mobile home space has been divided into two “back to back” RV sites, which makes getting parked somewhat interesting. The bonus is there are nice common areas for dog walking and play and a large laundry facility, which is also something I need while here.

One of the first things I do when arriving in a new location is Google “grocery stores.” Upon arriving here in Las Cruces, I get the usual results of Albertson’s, Walmart, etc. But one of the entries in the results list is a place called The Hatch Chile Store. I’m very excited about this! I realize I won’t be getting most of my supplies there, but I make a point to visit the place. As it turns out, it’s not really a store, but more of a warehouse where they ship the delicious New Mexico chiles far and wide. They do, however, have a freezer with packages of roasted chiles available for purchase. I leave with enough to last me a few months. I once bought twenty-five pounds of fresh Hatch Chiles, roasted and froze them. This time, I’m happy to let someone else do the work.

White Sands is different than most National Parks/Monuments I’ve visited in that there are no particular individual features to see or photograph. The entirety of the park is pretty much the same, making the whole thing the sight to see. Beautiful white dunes as far as the eye can see in pretty much every direction. I notice families with children “sledding” on the dunes in plastic toboggans. A quick check of the brochure informs me that these are available for rent at the visitor center. My quest is to find some undisturbed white sand to photograph at sunset. I spend hours wandering around, searching for pristine views and trying not to make footprints of my own in my potential shot. Once the sun sets and I have some images, I hope to be able to find my car since everything in every direction looks pretty much the same.

The shady side of a dune at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico with a hardy yucca holding on against the relentless wind. — ***“Sunset at White Sands NM”***

The trip to White Sands has also yielded some potential locations just east of town where I might be able to get a decent shot of the Organ Mountains. I will try that tomorrow, after a trip to Old Messilla.

I’m enjoying my time in Las Cruces and part of me wishes I would have booked more time here. It’s one of those places I’ve mentioned before. A place where the energy feels good. Alas, not having known in advance I would enjoy the place so much, I have already reserved stays for the next month and a half. After a week here, which went by way too fast, I’m off to Rodeo, New Mexico.

Rusty’s RV Ranch piqued my interest when I saw the reviews online. I make extensive use of reviews of RV parks in choosing where to stay. This one has very good ratings and a lot of unique comments. The place is frequented by stargazers and amateur astronomers because of its remote location and dark skies. No outside lights are allowed, and you must close your window coverings at night in order to preserve the darkness.

New Mexico's highway 80 is one of the "roads less traveled." In this image, it heads toward the Chiricahua Mountains, which are actually in Arizona. — ***“Sunrise on the Chiricahua Mountains”***

Once again, I’m struck by the mountainous view in front of me as I’m driving to my destination. This time, it is the Chiricahua Mountains, which are over 9,700 feet above sea level at their highest peak. My perceptions of southwestern deserts are certainly changing. I make a mental note to come back and photograph this east-facing view at sunrise.

I am arriving on Thanksgiving Day. When I made the reservation online, I noticed the park was having a Thanksgiving dinner and pot luck for guests. Since it is a travel day and I have no time to cook or shop for a dish, I figured I would just have dinner in my motorhome like any other day. Well, Rusty will not hear of it. When I explain to her that I have nothing to bring, she insists that I attend anyway. I can contribute to the donation jar if I feel the need.

After getting parked and set up, I take a $20 bill from my wallet and head over to the community building in the park. It is a raucous gathering of about 25 or 30 people, many of whom live elsewhere and spend the winter here. And, like most Thanksgiving dinners, we find ourselves waiting because the turkey is not done yet! It’s rare to have an opportunity to meet all the people staying in an RV park at once. It’s a fun gathering and I feel welcome after only a few hours here.

Knowing that the nearest town with amenities, like a grocery store, is sixty miles away, I’m curious why anyone would want to stay here long term. Turns out, that is exactly the appeal for some. They like being an hour away from “civilization.” Making a long trek once or twice a month for supplies is fine with them, in exchange for a quiet life in the Chihuahuan Desert, surrounded by mountain ranges known as the Sky Islands, and under some of the darkest night skies in North America. I’m learning there are many different ways of being a snowbird.

The Chiricahua National Monument is billed as a "Wonderland of Rocks." This is the Organ Pipe Formation, which is just a small part of the formations that make up the monument in southeast Arizona. — ***“Organ Pipe Formation”***

When I learned about the dark skies here, I had the idea that I might try a little astrophotography, something I have experimented with in the past. As it turns out, I have arrived here at the same time as an unusual cold front, with below freezing temperatures and cloudy skies. So much for that idea.

But, upon arriving at a new place, I usually ask the host what to see and do in the area. When I checked in, Rusty informed me that this is a prime destination for birdwatchers. However, the best time is spring and summer and I am here in winter. Still, I want to see what I can in these far southern reaches of the country, so I plan to visit Cave Creek and also the Chiricahua National Monument, which are both in Arizona, just a few miles west of me.

Rusty has constructed a walking trail that follows the border of the RV park. It’s a nice walk, totaling a mile or so, and a perfect place for getting to know the desert. As it turns out, Tom, who I met at the pot luck, and Molly, his golden retriever, also like to walk the perimeter trail in the mornings. We often meet up and walk together since Molly and Luna are becoming fast friends.

A juvenile male montezuma quail (Cyrtonyx montezumae) walking in the desert of southern Arizona. — ***“Montezuma Quail”***

One thing that is abundant here in the desert is goatheads! I haven’t had to deal with those nasty foot-puncturing stickers in a long time and I’m not happy to have them back in my life. But, because I forgot a few times and found them with my bare feet, they reinforce my commitment to removing my shoes at the door. Also, thanks to Luna and her curious nature, we see our first tarantula here.

On one of my trips to Cave Creek, I spot and unusual grouse-like bird walking on the ground. On my way back home, I stop at the visitor center to ask for help with identification. The volunteer there tells me he has no idea, but lets me look at a book of local species. To my surprise, it is a Montezuma Quail. While not endangered, I learn these birds are notoriously secretive and hard to spot. I feel very fortunate to have seen one.

Since my timing is not the greatest for bird photography, I add this to the list of places I would like to visit again. For now, I have a reservation for the month of December in Benson, Arizona. I’m looking forward to settling in for a month and exploring the area just south of Tuscon. After spending the last two winters on the Pacific Coast, I’m starting to feel like a real “snowbird.”

Red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) perched on a yucca stem in the New Mexico desert. — ***“Desert Red Tail”***

Finding My Way Home – Wild November

by Loree | Nov 7, 2022 | Birds, Deserts, Finding my Way Home

Wild November is the twenty-fifth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here . If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

Enchanting sunrise at Elephant Butte Lake, New Mexico. — ***“Land of Enchantment”***

After a short stay in Aztec, I point my motor home towards Grants, New Mexico. With major road construction going on, the road is gravel for about fifteen miles. Wouldn’t you know it, a flying rock chips my brand new windshield! This time, it is a small chip that should be repairable. Upon check-in at the Bar S RV Park, I ask if there is a chip repair place in town that will come to me. The woman at the desk hands me the local yellow pages and I make note of a business that offers mobile chip repair.

The next morning, I call and set an appointment. Feeling good about handling that issue, I set off to resupply groceries and explore the town. This is one of the many towns situated on historic Route 66. But, unlike other towns I’ve visited on Route 66, this one seems very run down and depressed. It’s clear to me that this place is not making the most of its history. The sad vibe makes me anxious to move on, but I try to make the best of the few days I am here.

A small group of four sandhill cranes (Antigone canadensis) arrive early at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. The New Mexico refuge is a regular stop for thousands of sandhill cranes every year during the fall migration. — ***“Migration Begins”***

The next day, Luna and I go for a long walk and then settle in to make some lunch and wait for the windshield repairman. My appointment is at 1:00pm. When no one shows up by 2:00, I make a call to find out when he will be there. My call goes to voicemail. I call again at 3:00 and again get voicemail. No answer the rest of the afternoon.

The next morning I call and ask what happened. He says he had an emergency and will be here at 3:00 this afternoon. Once again, the scheduled time comes and goes and no one shows up. Once again, my attempts to reach him go unanswered. Now, it’s getting to be urgent because I want to have the repair done before I travel further and risk the crack spreading.

A white-crowned sparrow (Zonotrichia leucophrys) poses against a backdrop of autumn color at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. — ***“White Crowned Sparrow in Autumn”***

I try another place, which offers chip repair, but not mobile service. I ask if they would be willing to come to the RV park and do the repair. After much hesitancy and my agreement to pay a ninety-dollar extra fee, they will do it. I’m beginning to wonder if the local businesses disdain for customers might be one of the reasons this town is in economic decline.

A few days later, I’m happy to be on the road again and excited to arrive at Birdwatcher’s RV Park in San Antonio, NM, adjacent to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. The location is perfect! Just two miles down the road from the refuge entrance. I called in advance and was told they only rent sites nightly, no weekly or monthly rates. Their busy season will begin in a few weeks when the cranes start to arrive, so I decide I will stay a few nights and look around the area for someplace with a monthly rate.

Full orange moon rising in Southern New Mexico, near Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. — ***“New Mexico Moonrise”***

When I go in the office to pay, I’m told they don’t accept credit cards. Since I rarely carry more than twenty or thirty dollars in cash, I have to go to Socorro, about fifteen miles north. It would have been nice to be informed of this little detail when I called. Nonetheless, I’m thrilled to be here and can’t wait to explore this place I’ve heard so much about.

The next morning, I’m up before sunrise and off to the refuge. My first stop is a pond just outside the entrance. It’s a beautiful setting, full of ducks and shorebirds and even a couple of sandhill cranes in the distance. I’ve been told there is a pair of white-tailed kites on the refuge, which is unusual for this location. As I drive around the auto route, I see my first Javelinas! They run by so fast I cannot get a photo, but it’s thrilling to see an animal I’ve never seen before.

White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus), a rare visitor to the Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, in flight early in the morning. — ***“Kite in Flight”***

Then, at a viewing deck, I see something perched in a snag. It takes off and flies toward me. It’s one of the white-tailed kites and it flies right over my head! Moments later, the other one flies after it. Already it’s a great day and it’s not even eight o’clock yet. I’m looking forward to a wild November at this wildlife refuge.

Off to hunt at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, this White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus) is something of a rarity in southern New Mexico. — ***“White-tailed Kite in Morning Light”***

By the time I get around both loops, the visitor center is open, so I stop in to ask some questions. I find out that the cranes won’t be arriving in large numbers for at least another two weeks. Also that Elephant Butte, about sixty miles to the south, is probably my best bet for monthly RV accommodations. The volunteer there alerts me to the presence of the white-tailed kites and I excitedly share my sighting.

After a few days exploring and getting to know the refuge and surrounding area, I land at Elephant Butte Resort for a month. Included with my site is access to their indoor pool, hot tub and exercise center. This is a first for me. Never have I stayed at an RV park with such posh amenities. I have my doubts that I will make much use of them, since I’m mostly here for the birds. Then, one morning I wake up with a sore back and realize I have a hot tub available. A long soak in hot water turns out to be a nice perk.

Two sandhill cranes (Antigone canadensis) bask in autumn's glory under a massive oak tree in full autumn regalia at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. The scene is reflected in a seasonal pond created by the refuge to provide habitat for cranes and other wildlife. — ***“Under the Old Oak Tree”***

This is the place I happen to be during the 2016 presidential election. It’s stormy outside and I’m nestled in bed watching election returns on my small bedroom television. As the evening progresses, and the returns come in, it’s not looking at all like I expected. Around nine o’clock my phone rings and it’s my son asking if I’m watching. We express concern over how things are going, but hope it might turn around. By the time he calls me again at midnight, it is all but over and we are both in tears.

When I wake up the next morning, I feel like I’m awakening from a nightmare. A quick look at my phone tells me it is real. It’s hard to describe my emotions. Shocked, saddened, angry, appalled, astonished—none of these words accurately describe the visceral reaction I’m having. It’s turning out to be a wild November, but not in the way I had hoped.

One way to distinguish a snow goose (Anser caerulescens) from similar species is the characteristic separation of the bill. This trait is often referred to as a smile, or a grin. Snow goose floating in the marsh at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. — ***“Snow Goose Grinning”***

There have been many times when the candidate I voted for lost an election. It’s always disappointing, but never devastating. Feeling despair and disgust over an election is something unfamiliar to me. What is it about this man that so repulses me? Why do I feel sick to my stomach when I watch him and hear him speak? And then it hits me. A lifetime of experience has taught me to avoid men with his traits. The arrogance, the vanity, the sexism, the flaunting of wealth, the attitude that he can do whatever he wants and nobody can stop him. I’ve learned to recognize men like this and even before the Access Hollywood tapes, I knew his type. I have encountered this man over and over throughout my life.

He’s the creepy old “family friend” with a comb-over who slipped his tongue into my mouth when I was only thirteen. It happened during one of those super uncomfortable “kiss Uncle Gene goodbye” episodes my parents used to force us into as kids. (Note: please don’t ever do this to your kids)

He is the co-worker who loudly and crudely commented about my body when I worked in an all-male office. He’s the other co-workers who laughed at those comments.

He’s the wealthy businessman who wined and dined me for a month before “proposing marriage.” His conditions were that I keep myself attractive and fit and be at his beck and call for sex. I would maintain an immaculate house appropriate for entertaining his business associates and remain monogamous and loyal to him. He would travel the world on business and have sex with whomever he pleased.

He’s the boss who told me he was considering laying me off, but would let me keep my job in exchange for sexual favors.

He is all the men I’ve ever met who made me feel like a piece of meat with no worth beyond satisfying their sexual desires. And he’s all the men I’ve ever met who get indignant when I don’t consider their lewd behavior a compliment.

Fiery sunrise in the desert near Elephant Butte Lake, New Mexico. — ***“Desert Dawn”***

This is just a sampling of a lifetime of experiences that taught me to avoid men like him at all costs. To hand him the ultimate position of power feels both terrifying and nauseating. I was always taught to respect the Office of the President, even when I don’t agree with the person who holds it. I have to admit I’m having a really hard time with that at the moment.

But, the voters have spoken, and in this country we accept the results of an election even when we don’t like the outcome. I am aware that my personal feelings are mine to deal with. Realizing that not everyone has had the same experiences, I try to focus on the policy positions I disagree with and what I can do about those.

Sandhill Cranes (Antigone canadensis) are known for their courtship dance, which they perform almost any time of year. The object of this crane's affection was busy browsing for something to eat. The lack of attention did not stop him from dancing anyway. — ***“Dance Like Nobody’s Watching”***

I disagree with the plan to rescind the National Monument designation of Bear’s Ears. This matter doesn’t seem very important to most people, but means a lot to me. Having been there and seen the place with my own eyes not long ago, I wholeheartedly support the designation.

I disagree with the idea of building a wall the entire length of the southern border. It’s not because I condone unconstrained immigration. It’s just that in the age of spy satellites and surveillance drones, a wall seems like an expensive, medieval and environmentally destructive plan. Wildlife should be able to migrate freely, regardless of the rules we impose on people.

A flock of sandhill cranes at dawn over Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. — ***“Sunrise Flock”***

Actually, there are so many things I disagree with, it would be impossible to focus on all of them. I have always believed that if each person were to put some effort into working on the thing that means most to them, each issue would receive the attention it deserves and the world would be a better place. To this end, I have decided that nature, wildlife and the environment is where I will concentrate my activist energies.

A group of snow geese (Chen caerulescens) in flight over Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. — ***“Snow Geese in Flight”***

In all my travels, I have always made a point to visit any National Wildlife Refuge I have been near. Most times, there is an enthusiastic volunteer in the visitor center to answer my questions and help me make the most of my visit. Suddenly, it dawns on me–I could be that volunteer.

Large, old oak reflected in the pond at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. Those are sandhill cranes (Grus canadensis) browsing around the shore. — ***“Meet Me at the Pond”***

America’s Public Lands – Bosque del Apache

by Loree | Dec 5, 2016 | Birds, Public Lands, Wildlife

On a chilly morning in early November, I crawl out of bed two hours before sunrise, knowing it will take at least an hour to reach my destination. My objective this morning is Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, a 57,331-acre preserve in south-central New Mexico administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The refuge was established in 1939 by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Each year, it’s estimated that between 10,000 and 30,000 migrating sandhill cranes come to the refuge and adjacent areas to feed and spend the winter. Geese and other waterfowl also spend the winter here, thanks to an intricate web of gates and channels which move water from the Rio Grande through fields and floodplains and back to the river, simulating the natural cycle that has been disrupted by decades of development and diversion.

Early Birds

As I exit the freeway and drive the five miles to my first stop, the anticipation starts to build, just as the light is beginning to build on the eastern horizon. The parking area near the pond comes into view and it is filled with vehicles. As I get closer, I can make out dozens of human silhouettes with tripods in front of them. Some have cameras mounted, while others support spotting scopes. Many people have cameras or binoculars on straps around their necks. Then, I see why they are there. Thousands of sandhill cranes are gathered in the shallow water around the edges of the pond. I park on the shoulder of the road, since the parking area is filled to capacity. While most of the people are either silent, or speaking in whispers, the birds are raucous and loud. The unmistakable cackling call that is unique to the species is nearly constant. The sense of wonder and awe is apparent on the faces surrounding me.

Rise and Shine

My heart is pounding with excitement as I grab my camera and find an open spot on the raised bank above the pond. The birds are beginning to fly, in small groups of four, six, eight, yet it’s still too dark for sharp images of birds in flight. Another photographer remarks to me that we need more light. I nod in agreement.

Up With the Sun

Then, the sun begins to break above the partly cloudy horizon, and suddenly flight photos are possible. As the sunrise continues, more and more birds take to the sky. The groups of cranes taking off from the pond are so frequent I hardly know which way to turn. They are flying to my right, my left, behind me, in front of me, in the distance, and just a few feet away. It’s almost dizzying as I try to decide which way to point the camera. I’m feeling good about my decision to leave the tripod in the car, but regret leaving the gloves. I can barely feel my fingers, but don’t want to take the short walk back to the car for fear I will miss the magical dawn light.

Three’s a Crowd

In less than an hour, the spectacle is over and there are only a handful of cranes left at the pond. As I return to the car, still shivering, partly from excitement and partly from cold, I realize the extra memory card I had in my hand before I set out is still on the table of my dinette–55 miles away! A quick pass through the images on my camera, deleting the ones that were too dark and out of focus, frees up some space for a drive around the auto tour route.

Snow Geese in Flight

Daylight has revealed some of the other species who call this place home. Raptors, herons, ducks and geese are awake and going about their lives amidst the ever-present and ubiquitous sandhill cranes. As I fill what’s left of the space on my camera’s memory card and head back to the place I’m calling home at the moment, there is a sense that I have experienced something very special and truly unforgettable.

Fall Heron