Finding My Way Home – The Four Corners

Finding My Way Home – The Four Corners

The Four Corners is the eleventh installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

Storm clouds glowing just before sunset behind Eagle Mesa in Monument Valley.
“Eagle Mesa Storm Clouds”

After the huge disappointment that was Sedona, Monument Valley is literally a breath of fresh air. There are no fast food joints, no real estate sales offices, no faux Native American shopping centers, and no stop lights! Monument Valley is a very remote, yet popular destination. Many people mistakenly believe that it is a national park, however it is actually a Navajo Tribal Park, operated and managed by the Navajo Nation. The Navajo People are constantly navigating the fine line between exploiting a popular tourist attraction and preserving a sacred natural ecosystem. They do a fine job of balancing these things, in my opinion. Visiting Monument Valley is a breathtaking and unique experience. Since it is so popular, I am only able to secure three nights at the RV park in the valley. Interestingly, the RV park is in Utah, while the tribal park is in Arizona. Yet it’s only a four mile trip between the two.

The mittens of Monument Valley, Arizona stand in the sunshine while a large, thunderstorm-laden cloud bank moves in from Utah.
“Monument Valley Thunderstorm – Black and White”.

Since I don’t have much time here, and since it is so beautiful, I am up every day before sunrise to visit the park and shoot it at dawn. Mile Thirteen, the spot where Forrest decided to stop running in the movie Forrest Gump, is also on my list. The weather is somewhat turbulent, which creates dramatic clouds. There is even a tornado reported north of the valley on the first day. We experience some desert monsoon type storms, which are short, but very intense rainstorms that leave temporary streams and waterfalls for a short time after the rain stops. Having made the most of my short time here, I’m excited to continue my exploration of the Four Corners region.

Just minutes before the sun rises over the horizon, the sky explodes with color, while the incredible sandstone buttes of Monument Valley remain in the dark. This is the classic view of Monument Valley, including the West Mitten, East Mitten, and Merrill Butte.
“Monumental Sunrise”

The reason it’s called the Four Corners is because four states intersect here at ninety degree angles. The square corners of Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico fit together like a preschool-level puzzle. I have fond memories of coming to the actual demarcation plaza as a child and placing my feet and hands so that I was in four states at the same time. It was a very cool thing to do as a little kid. There has lately been some controversy over whether the monument is actually in the right spot, but does it really matter? Anyway, since I’ve already been there and done that, I decide to skip that particular exercise this time around. The entire region of southeastern Utah, northeastern Arizona, southwestern Colorado and northwestern New Mexico is known as the Four Corners region and it is filled with wonderful geology, ancient archaeology, and complex culture. All of which are way more interesting to me than a metal disc in concrete marking the borders of four states.

Mile post thirteen on US route 163 just north of Monument Valley in Utah. This spot became famous as the point in the movie "Forrest Gump" where Forrest decided to stop running. In this image, you can see the mile marker on the left and the red sandstone buttes of Monument Valley in the distance.
“Mile Thirteen”

As I set out for Bluff, Utah, Chris heads back to California. Once again, I am navigating new territory alone. I am excited to see in real life so many things I have only read about. I plan to visit the House on Fire ancient cliff dwelling, The Mexican Hat, and the Goosenecks of the San Juan River. One thing I’m starting to notice, however, is that I usually discover something even more amazing than all the places I already know about. When I check in to my RV park in Bluff, I ask the proprietor what sights she thinks I should see. She tells me about a place called Valley of the Gods and gives me directions, along with a warning not to go if it is raining or has rained in the past day. This is because the twenty mile dirt road through the valley can turn to deep mud with only a small amount of rain.

The desert southwest is home to many waterfalls that only exist for short periods of time in the right conditions. In dry times, you can see their "tracks" on the cliffs. When it rains hard for a few hours, they begin to flow, and after the rain stops, so do the waterfalls. This one appeared during a heavy rain in the canyons near Monument Valley in Utah.
“Ethereal Waterfall”

The first three days I’m in Bluff, it rains at least once per day. I don’t want to get stranded out in the middle of the desert, so I spend my time visiting the other places on my list. The House on Fire is a popular attraction. I’m pleasantly surprised to have the trail and the structure to myself on the morning I visit. The Goosenecks is a popular state park and campground, but not too crowded when I go there. The Mexican Hat is a lone rock formation out in the desert with a few hiking trails around it and the general area. All these places are as beautiful as I expected or more so.

Over some 300 million years, the San Juan River has carved its way through the southeastern Utah desert, creating one thousand foot deep entrenched meanders, where more than seven miles of river is twisted into less than two miles of space. This unique geological feature is known as The Goosenecks.
“Goosenecks of the San Juan”

The RV park has a pond on the premises, so I get the bonus of a little wildlife photography, too. For the first time, I see freshly hatched American Coot chicks. What a surprise they are! With their brightly colored face feathers and their little bald heads, I can’t decide whether they’re cute or just weird.

The American Coot (Fulica americana) is a very common and widespread species of waterfowl in the United States. They are also known as mud hens. Although I see them often, I don't often see very young chicks like this one. The bright plumes of the baby coot are known as chick ornaments and the bright colors are only apparent for the first six days of the chick's life.
“Feed Me”

I’m starting to worry that I will either be unable to visit the Valley of the Gods, or I will have to take a chance on the muddy road. Then, finally, a full day without rain. I make a plan to go first thing in the morning. At about 4:30a.m. I am awakened by thunder rumbling. Crap! As I lay there listening to the distant storm, I’m thinking that it’s in the other direction. After checking the local weather on my phone app, I determine that if any rain fell, it was not on the Valley of the Gods. My plan is still on!

The Mexican Hat is a unique rock formation in the desert near the town of the same name in the Four Corners region of southern Utah.
“The Mexican Hat”

After being blown away by the beauty of Monument Valley, I didn’t think anything could impress me more. I was wrong. The Valley of the Gods is every bit as impressive as Monument Valley, but without the crowds. I keep wondering while I’m there why it isn’t preserved as a National Park or Monument. Then again, I’m secretly happy so few people visit. The stark beauty of the towering bluffs is only enhanced by the relative emptiness of the place. There are a few primitive campsites occupied here and there, but other than that, it’s nothing but breathtaking scenery.

These Anasazi ruins in Utah's Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the "House on Fire" ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.
“House on Fire”

To the extent I’ve been planning ahead, I’ve contacted my friend Colleen. We were close friends in high school, but have lost touch for at least twenty-five years. She’s living in Durango, Colorado, which is near my next reservation in Cortez. We make a plan to meet.

A sandstone butte in Valley of the Gods known as The Lady in the Bathtub. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley. Managed by BLM, Valley of the Gods is also less crowed than its more famous counterpart, even though it's more accessible.
“The Other Monument Valley”

When I arrive in Cortez, I find out the RV park doesn’t accept credit cards. This is a first for me. I’ve been paying all my expenses with a credit card, and then paying the balance at the end of the month. It’s a handy way to keep track of my spending, and helps me stay on budget. I pay all my bills (insurance, cell phone, etc.) electronically, therefore, I have no need to carry checks. This causes a mad scramble to find an ATM or someplace I can get enough cash for my stay. I end up getting cash back at the grocery store. I have to go back through the checkout twice because of a limit on the amount per transaction. After I get back, I post a little rant on a Facebook RV group about the inconvenience, and to warn others who may want to stay at this place. The post garners over a hundred comments, some lecturing me on the evils of credit and how I should learn to live within my means! I can’t help but laugh at all the silly responses.

Storm clouds beginning to build behind a towering balanced rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley. Managed by BLM, Valley of the Gods is also less crowed than its more famous counterpart, even though it's more accessible.
“Towering Clouds and Towering Rocks”

I’m still in the wonderful four corners region, with spectacular scenery and ancient history. Mesa Verde National Park is a must visit while I’m here. Plus, being surrounded by majestic mountain peaks reminds me of my childhood. I spent several years of my young life in the mountains of Colorado. I’m starting to feel like that curious little girl again.

The Cliff Dwelling known as Oak Tree House at Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado.
“Oak Tree House”

Colleen and I decide to meet for breakfast in Durango. I am feeling a little nervous about seeing her after such a long time. A lot of water can flow under the bridge in twenty-five years. I can tell she is a little anxious, too. A breakfast date seems like an easy way to meet and then go our separate ways if things are awkward or uncomfortable. When I see her, it’s like traveling back in time. She looks exactly the same as she did a quarter century ago. We have so much to catch up on. We meet for breakfast and end up walking and talking till three in the afternoon!

Battleship Rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley. Managed by BLM, Valley of the Gods is also less crowed than its more famous counterpart in the Four Corners region, even though it's more accessible.
“Sail Away”

While we’re together, I mention that I’m thinking of going back to our home town in Wyoming later in the summer. Together, we hatch a plan to surprise another friend of ours, Kristy. We’re just like mischievous teenagers again. Except now, I have to watch what I say on social media so I don’t give it away.

Monument Valley at daybreak. As the sun rises over the West Mitten, the valley is illuminated and a new day begins.
“A New Day”
America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

From the moment I arrived in the quiet little town of Bluff, in the southeastern part of Utah, I had the sense that I had stumbled upon a little-known area of scenic wonders and sacred history. My usual practice of asking the RV park operator for suggestions of things to see and do in the area yielded a list too abundant to possibly complete in my one-week scheduled visit. Having just spent several days in Monument Valley, witnessing some of the most breathtaking views the four-corners region has to offer, I was not expecting to be stunned. I was in for a surprise!

Bluff, Utah Bluff, Utah  Est. 650 A.D.

One of the first things I noticed is that the “Bluffoons” (as the locals like to call themselves) have a wicked sense of humor, along with a mighty sense of pride in the long history of the area.

Loree Johnson Photography; House on Fire; Utah; anasazi; mule canyon; ancient; ruins; cliff dwellings; sandstone; desert southwest; flame; blanding ut; cedar mesaThese Anasazi ruins in Utah’s Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the “House on Fire” ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.

Having seen photographs of the House on Fire, I wanted to see it with my own eyes. It was not easy to find. After much searching on the internet, and quizzing a few locals, I found what seemed to be the correct trail through BLM land in the Mule Canyon area. I remember thinking to myself how strange it was that such a unique place was so little-known and sparsely visited. I spent a morning hiking to the ruins and a couple of hours there taking in the energy of the place without ever seeing another person. It felt as though I had connected with the spirit of the ancient people who built it.

The Other Monument Valley; the lady in the bathtub; valley of the gods; southern ut; utah; monument valley; remote; buttes; mesas; balancing rocks; erosion; desert southwest; four corners; inspiring; beautiful; surreal; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson A sandstone butte in Valley of the Gods known as The Lady in the Bathtub. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley.

Another place I decided to visit, per suggestion of the RV park management, was Valley of the Gods. Wow! Some people refer to it as “the other Monument Valley.” The terrain is very similar, but the access road is better–as long as it hasn’t rained recently. I was able to navigate the entire 17 mile scenic drive in my compact two-wheel drive car. I only saw a handful of other people while there, including a few people who were camping.

sail away; battleship rock; valley of the gods; southern ut; utah; monument valley; remote; buttes; mesas; balancing rocks; erosion; desert southwest; four corners; inspiring; beautiful; surreal; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson Battleship Rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah.

The sandstone buttes in Valley of the Gods are every bit as majestic and breathtaking as the more famous formations in Monument Valley. And once again, I found myself wondering how this amazing place was so unknown by so many.

During my too-short visit to the area, I was unaware that it had been under consideration for National Monument status for over two years. Looking back at the wonder I experienced, I was thrilled when I heard the news that President Obama had designated the Bears Ears National Monument.

Not only that, but five tribal nations are represented by a council whose responsibility is to advise federal agencies regarding administration of the monument. It is the first time in our history that Native Americans have been given authoritative input into the management of the lands their ancestors occupied. The area is home to abundant numbers of burial grounds and cliff dwellings, which have lately been the target of “pot hunters.” A term used to describe those who scavenge the ruins for artifacts and sell them illegally. The Antiquities Act (which is the authority used by the President to designate the monument) was written expressly for the purpose of protecting such artifacts and historic dwellings.

Bluff Sunset; light; bluff ut; utah; desert southwest; end of the day; glow; momentary; clouds; storm; tiny town; last light; four corners; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree JohnsonAs the sun sets on the tiny town of Bluff, Utah, the bluffs which give the town its name light up in the glow of the days last light. Storm clouds above the bluffs take on a momentary golden glow.

This new Bears Ears National Monument is long overdue, and should prove to be economically beneficial to the little towns like Bluff, where they seemed to me to be trying to convince the tourists to stay a while, rather than blast through on the way north to Canyonlands and Arches. There is indeed, much worth seeing in this remote section of Utah. And I am happy that it will be protected for future generations to appreciate, and even for me to visit again.

Pin It on Pinterest