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America’s Public Lands – Malheur NWR

by Loree | Sep 17, 2018 | Deserts, Public Lands, The Vagabond Lifestyle, Wildlife

At the northernmost end of the Great Basin in western North America lies Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. Set aside in 1908 as a bird sanctuary by President Theodore Roosevelt, and added to over the century since, Malheur today consists of 187,757 acres of wildlife habitat, including Malheur, Harney and Mud Lakes, plus the Blitzen River Valley. Interestingly, in learning about the history of the Harney Basin, I discovered that we all owe a debt of gratitude to a wildlife photographer–William L. Finley. His photographs and advocacy are largely responsible for the designation, which eventually came to be a wildlife refuge, both here and in the Klamath Basin, roughly 200 miles to the south and west.

Crane Training

On this day, the fourth anniversary of the day I pulled up roots and went vagabond, it seems appropriate to look back, not only over the summer spent here, but the ever-evolving journey of life on the road. As a direct result of the 2016 election and its ensuing assault on the environment in general, and public lands in particular, my travels have morphed from a random list of desired places to see, to a more focused effort of doing a small part to help save our precious public lands for future generations. As a volunteer, I hope to add value and provide information for those who visit these extraordinary places. Over the summer, I have found Malheur to be not only a refuge for wildlife, but a respite for people. It seems almost as many visitors come here for the peace and wide open spaces as the wildlife.

Barn Owl Hiding

If you have heard of this place, it is likely because of the armed occupation that happened in January of 2016. However, there has been conflict here for well over 100 years. The competing interests of cattle ranchers, farmers and wildlife protectors have been vying for limited water and resources since the early settlers arrived in the late 1800’s. At the same time the lake was set aside as a wildlife sanctuary, the Bureau of Reclamation was busy draining wetlands in an attempt to create more agricultural land. By the 1930’s, the draining of natural marshes had caused even more damage to bird populations than the original plume hunters the sanctuary was created to protect against.

Owl Scowl

Despite many conflicts over the years, including the armed occupation of 2016, the people of Harney County have forged relationships and compromises over many years, with the deep ties to the land here as literally, common ground. As my time here winds down and I contemplate moving on, I can’t help but feel a sense of hope that the efforts of those who work hard to bring people to the table in order to hammer out agreements and accommodations is paying off.

Natural Friendship

One of the greatest gifts of volunteering at a wildlife refuge is the opportunity to learn about the history, biology and geology of the place. As year five on the road begins, I look forward to the abundance of experiences and education that await me. If you would like to help preserve and restore Malheur, consider becoming a member of the Friends of Malheur Refuge. For a more detailed look at the history of Malheur NWR, see this article.

Young Hawk Soaring

Editor’s note: It was super hard to pick just a few photos for this article. To see the entire collection of photos from this summer at Malheur click here.

America’s Public Lands – Takhlakh Lake

by Loree | Feb 23, 2017 | Lakes, Mountains, Public Lands, Waterfalls

The journey to Takhlakh Lake began unexpectedly, about a month earlier, standing on a dike above the Columbia River in Kennewick, Washington. There to photograph the rise of the full moon over the Cable Bridge, I met another photographer who was there to capture the same. Both of us had plotted out the moon’s trajectory in relation to the bridge and had arrived plenty early in order to prepare and readjust, if necessary. Waiting for the moon to rise is a common theme for me, since the exact time it breaks over the horizon is dependent upon the elevation of said horizon. This uncertainty leads me to arrive and set up generally at least an hour before the moon.

Moonrise Over the Cable Bridge

With our tripods in place and cameras pointing in the direction of the bridge, we started to chat while we waited. The usual question “Where are you from?” started us off. This is always a tricky one for me because there is no cut and dried answer. Born in Wyoming, having lived most of my adult life in Northern California, neither of those is an honest response to the underlying premise of the question, which is “Where will you return to when you leave here?” And so began the conversation. Me explaining that I have no permanent home and had intentions to travel west to the Columbia Gorge after leaving eastern Washington. As a resident of the Tri-Cities area, my new friend was a frequent traveler to the gorge. He was happy to share suggestions for things to see and photo opportunities. That’s how I found out about Takhlakh Lake.

Full Moon Over the Cable Bridge

Once I got to the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, I knew I wanted to find Takhlakh Lake and try for a photo with a reflection of Mount Adams. Google Maps told me it was approximately 60 miles to my northeast, situated within the huge Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Located in Southwest Washington State, the Gifford Pinchot National Forest encompasses 1,368,300 acres of forests, mountains, river valleys, waterfalls, and lakes. Pacific Northwest weather being what it is, I waited for a day without rain. The wait lasted two weeks. Finally, a break in the rain came, but the sky was still overcast. I decided to set out anyway, and just settle for lake photographs if Mt. Adams was not visible.

Fairyland Fantasy

Sixty miles sounds like a relatively short drive, but when it’s comprised mainly of forest service roads, some paved, some not, it takes a while. Despite the gloomy weather, the drive was beautiful. A few miles from the lake, I spotted a sign that read “Big Spring Creek Falls.” Well, I’ve never been one to pass a waterfall without stopping, so a short detour was in order. The falls were spread out over three tiers, and the forest was much too thick to get a shot of the entirety of all three in one frame. The weather that was threatening my lake reflection shot was, however, perfect for waterfall images.

Big Spring Creek Falls – Middle Tier

After a longer than expected side trip to the waterfall and several more miles of gravel road, plus a brief snow flurry, I finally arrived at Takhlakh Lake. It was every bit as beautiful and secluded as my friend in Kennewick had described it. From the parking lot, there was access to a lakeside trail that followed the shore. I set out to find a location from which to shoot some images of this pristine alpine lake. When I found a fallen tree with its top pointing in the direction of the far shore, that was it. I set up the tripod and started to decide which settings I would use, when I noticed it was getting lighter. I looked up, and couldn’t believe what I saw. Mt. Adams was appearing before my eyes as the clouds began to lift! And thanks to the stormy weather, there was a pure white blanket of fresh snow on the mountain!

Takhlakh Lake with Mount Adams

Days when everything comes together perfectly are rare, and this was one of those rare, unforgettable days, more than a month in the making. America’s public lands are truly our greatest national treasure. Thank you for visiting them with me in this series of articles. And I hope you will join me in supporting those who are dedicated to keeping them public for generations to come. See you on the next adventure!

Mount Adams Doubled

Best of 2015

by Loree | Dec 26, 2015 | Art, Best of, Blog, Deserts, Gratitude, Lakes, Mountains, National Parks, Photography, The Vagabond Lifestyle, Wildlife

Another year gone by and time for the obligatory “Top Ten” post. Since 2015 was the first full year I spent on the road, it’s a pretty amazing variety. From Arizona to Washington and many places in between. It was tougher to narrow it down to ten this year, probably because of all the wonderful memories associated with each photo. But I’ve attempted to be as objective as possible, judging the final product more than the process, although the two are inexplicably connected from my perspective. So, without further ado, I give you my top ten photographs of 2015.

10.) Angelic

Great egret (Ardea alba) in breeding plumage in flight against a clear blue sky.

This image was photographed at Gray Lodge Wildlife Area in central California. I was ever so fortunate to find a rookery where great egrets, great blue herons, and double-crested cormorants were preparing their nests in the midst of breeding season. This photo made the list on account of its unique perspective of one of my favorite birds, as well as the beautiful green lore and elegant tail feathers known as aigrettes, which are characteristic of breeding plumage.

9.) Peeking Peak

In the midst of an autumn storm, the peaks of the Grand Tetons make brief appearances for only moments before disappearing again into the clouds. This is one of those moments.

I chose this image for its otherworldly quality and the juxtaposition of the jagged peak against the softness of the clouds. Since I had only three days in Grand Teton National Park, and I arrived in the midst of a storm with heavy clouds blanketing the rugged peaks, I was fortunate enough to be in a position to capture this image when an opening in the clouds appeared for just a few brief minutes.

8.) Mount Garfield

mount garfiled; mt. garfield; colorado; grand junction co; palisade co; mesa county co; mesa; geology; peak; interesting; western slope; interstate 70; blue sky; clouds; morning; light; elevation; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Mt. Garfield is a 6765 ft. (2062 m) peak in the Little Book Cliff mountains just to the north of interstate 70 between Grand Junction and Palisade, Colorado. This mountain is more like a mesa and is very geologically interesting.

I can’t tell you how many times over the last year I’ve been driving my motor home, with car in tow, and seen something I wanted to photograph. This inevitably happens on a narrow road, with no shoulder and no place to pull over my awkwardly large rig. On the day I was leaving the western slope of Colorado to travel north into Wyoming, I saw Mount Garfield bathed in the beautiful morning light with wispy clouds hovering above. Once again, I longed for a place to stop and get out with my camera when all of a sudden, a large pullout appeared. This image was chosen for its serendipity and in honor of all those other missed shots where personal safety took precedence over photography.

7.) Pheasant in Flight

pheasant in flight; ring-necked pheasant; Phasianus colchicus; male; in flight; fly; flying; bird; wild; wildlife; upland game bird; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Male Ring-necked Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) in flight.

This image made the list as the realization of a long-standing goal. For years I have been fascinated with the ring-necked pheasants and have attempted many hundreds of times to get a photograph of one in flight, but they were just too quick. Then one morning, while driving around lost on an abandoned road in the McNary National Wildlife Refuge of eastern Washington, I surprised a group of these birds roosting in a tree. I also surprised myself with the composure and reflexes to finally capture an image of one of these elusive birds on the wing. And a beautifully colored male, too.

6.) Magical Sedona

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Double rainbow over Cathedral Rock in Sedona, Arizona. Recent rains have left pools of water, creating an opportunity to capture a reflection of the famous, mystical rock in the foreground.

Sedona was an unexpected destination in my travels this year as I had originally planned to go to Bryce Canyon in May after spending time at Zion National Park. The weather turned unexpectedly cold and snowy in southern Utah and I changed plans to go farther south. My first evening in Sedona was spent at Red Rock Crossing, which is purportedly the most photographed spot in Arizona. I was thrilled to find a puddle that was big enough to capture a reflection of the famed Cathedral Rock, but when a double rainbow appeared, I was utterly astonished.

5.) Dawn at Tipsoo Lake

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Tipsoo Lake reflects Mount Rainier at Dawn. Mt. Rainier National Park, Washington.

Sunrise is possibly my favorite time of day to capture landscape photographs and this image is one of my favorite dawns. Mount Rainier is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Cascade Range and the perfectly still water gave my eyes and camera double the pleasure of it in the morning’s first light. I also captured a horizontal version of this scene, but I chose the vertical because it incorporates a closer view of the mountain in all its glacial glory.

4.) Sedona Moon

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Watching the full moon rise between the spires of Sedona, Arizona’s Cathedral Rock is a truly unforgettable experience.

It’s ironic that two of my top ten photos this year are from Sedona since it wasn’t one of my favorite places. Cathedral Rock is, however, a truly beautiful and majestic sight, and more than worthy of two top-ten spots. The orientation of the rocks are such that when you are facing the them, the sun sets behind you. There are just a few moments each afternoon when the light of the setting sun reflects and causes the red rocks to “glow.” This image is the result of quite a bit of meticulous planning and a little bit of luck. Mapping out and finding a place where the full moon would rise over the rock at sunset was the planned part. The moon rising just between the spire and the monolith was the luck part.

3.) Bald Eagle Swoosh

Bald eagle swoosh; Haliaeetus leucocephalus; american; perch; taking flight; atop; tree; sacramento NWR; national wildlife refuge; california; glenn county ca; blue sky; wings; wingspan; bird of prey; raptor; wild; wildlife; in flight; flying; majestic; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

American bald eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) taking flight from its perch atop the tree.

I’ve already blogged about this image in my “Stories Behind the Images” series, but it made the top ten because it is probably the sharpest, clearest eagle in flight photo I’ve ever captured. And because they are just awesome birds.

2. Storm View

Storm View; cedaredge overlook; colorado; grand mesa; mesa county co; delta valley; thunderstorms; storm; stormy; clouds; weather; rain; vast; vista; showers; dramatic; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Dramatic view from the Cedaredge Overlook on Colorado’s Grand Mesa on a stormy summer afternoon.

Another of my favorite things to photograph is dramatic weather. While scouting out places to photograph fireworks on 4th of July, five thousand feet above the valley floor on Colorado’s Grand Mesa, this thunderstorm developed. The fireworks shots were a bust, but the location scouting and dramatic weather gave me one of my best images of the year, which even made World View on The Weather Underground.

1.) Eagle Mesa Storm Clouds

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Storm clouds glowing just before sunset behind Eagle Mesa in Monument Valley.

I have to admit that coming up with the top ten this year was much more difficult than last year. Even more difficult was deciding which image would be number one. After much deliberation, I choose this view of Eagle Mesa in Monument Valley. It gets the top spot because of the glow and shape of the clouds, and also because it is a view of Monument Valley that is less common and less photographed than the traditional “mittens.”

This year has been a wonder of experiences and places for me. I’ve learned a lot about photography, RV’ing, and life. Opening my eyes and heart to the wonders of the world has truly made me feel young again. I look forward to 2016 and another year of discovery, growth, and education. Happiest of New Years to all of you!

What a year it’s been!

by Loree | Sep 21, 2015 | Deserts, Gratitude, Mountains, National Parks, Photography, Significant Dates, The Vagabond Lifestyle, Waterfalls, Wildlife

The one year anniversary of my vagabond life was September 17th. I spent it photographing wildlife in the rain in Grand Teton National Park. It’s hard to believe it’s already been a year since that bittersweet day I left most of my possessions behind and began an unforgettable journey into the unknown.

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A cow elk crosses the Snake River enveloped in the early morning mist. Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.

Along the way, I’ve seen amazing sights, old friends, ancient ruins, dear family, and indescribable beauty.

House on Fire; Utah; anasazi; mule canyon; ancient; ruins; cliff dwellings; sandstone; desert southwest; flame; blanding ut; cedar mesa; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

These Anasazi ruins in Utah’s Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the “House on Fire” ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.

Above Grand Prismatic Spring; yellowstone national park; wyoming; picture hill; hot spring; colors; colorful; rainbow; pool; geothermal; steam; teton county wy; midway geyser basin; boardwalk

Yellowstone National Park’s Grand Prismatic Spring is the third largest hot spring in the world, so big it’s visible from space. The striking colors of the pool match the dispersion of light found in the rainbow.

I’ve fretted over the weather and been awestruck by it.

Dramatic view from the Cedaredge Overlook on Colorado’s Grand Mesa on a stormy summer afternoon.

I’ve learned that traveling is much different when it’s your life. I go slower, see more, and change my plans often. I’ve discovered the true meaning of “it’s not the destination, but the journey.” I’ve stressed over repairs and thanked my lucky stars that this old motor home is still holding up. I’ve been back to familiar places and discovered some I never knew existed.

Boxelder Canyon Wyoming; gorge; converse county wy; glenrock; little known; scenic; inaccessible; enchanting; unspoiled; nature; natural; wilderness; creek; waterfalls; pools; clean; beautiful; rocks; water; scenery; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Boxelder Canyon is a little-known, beautifully scenic gorge in Converse County Wyoming, near the town of Glenrock. The interior of the canyon is virtually inaccessible to all but the most determined of hikers. There are no trails and many sheer rock walls, which is perhaps why it is still as enchanting and unspoiled as it was when I lived in this area more than three decades ago.

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Battleship Rock in Valley of the Gods, Utah. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley. Managed by BLM, Valley of the Gods is also less crowed than its more famous counterpart, even though it’s more accessible.

I’ve seen wild creatures large and small.

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This bull moose definitely had somewhere to go. He was walking determinedly in the cold, pouring rain at Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.

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The male black-chinned hummingbirds always seem to be all dressed up. Especially when the light hits them just right.

I’ve been in the shadow of some of the highest mountains in this country, and some of the smallest.

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First light on Mount Moran and the Grand Tetons at Oxbow Bend in Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park. Fresh snow, valley fog, autumn colors, and smooth water make this scene a dream come true.

Thunderstorm Over the Sutter Buttes; sunset; dusk; weather; storm; glow; light; pink; orange; colusa county ca; california; sacramento valley; orchards; farms; dramatic; farmland; landmark; central valley ca; sutter county ca; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

A thunderstorm rolls in over the Sutter Buttes in the central valley of California at sunset. In this view from the west,the swirling clouds are illuminated by the setting sun in a dramatic weather display.

My home has been at sea level and at over 8000 feet. I’ve met others who, like me, choose to live this way and others who live this way not of their own choice. I’ve met people who wish to live this life “someday,” and some who have been doing it for decades. And despite the impressions some people seem to have, my life is not just one big vacation. There is still laundry, grocery shopping, house cleaning and dirty dishes. A lot of time is spent on RV maintenance as well. I’ve found that no matter what I expect, life still gives me the unexpected. I’ve gotten comfortable with not knowing what’s next. Some of the places I thought would be amazing turned out to only be okay. Some of the places I thought would be okay turned out to be amazing.

Falls Creek Falls; tiers; two; three; awe-inpiring; waterfall; autumn; rain; scene; scenic; travel; nature; natural; mist; spray; splash; big; gifford pinchot national forest; washington; southern; wa; in; and; the; a; on; over; to; of; with; under; above; against; Loree Johnson

Falls Creek Falls is an awe-inspiring waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National forest of southern Washington. The water falls more than 300 feet over three tiers. Only the lower two tiers are visible at once, as in this image captured in the autumn rain.

Nine states in the first year and I’ve just crossed into the tenth. Montana is the place I begin year two. Looking back, I can’t help but feel incredibly grateful for the choices I’ve made and the opportunities I’ve been given. Although it hasn’t been all rainbows and unicorns, it has been one of the best years of my life.

$Magical Rainbow Reflection; Waldport OR; Oregon; Alsea River; rainbow; reflect; reflection; reflected; water; sky; double; rain; weather; sun; refract; beauty; scene; scenic; calm; serene; serenity; peace; nature; natural; magic; pot of gold; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson$

The pot of gold is in Waldport, Oregon. The beautiful rainbow is reflected in the calm morning water of the Alsea River for only a few magical moments.

As my 53rd birthday approaches, I can only hope for the good fortune to continue. And even if it doesn’t, I have an incredible year of memories and experiences that have changed me forever.

Monument Valley, on the other hand…

by Loree | Jun 22, 2015 | Deserts, Gratitude, Locations, The Vagabond Lifestyle

Or maybe that should be “on the other mitten.” If you saw my last post, then you know I didn’t really feel the relaxed, natural beauty of Sedona, Arizona. Instead, it seemed to me more like Las Vegas without the neon. A playround for the rich, with much hustle and manic energy. So, just a few days later, when I arrived at Monument Valley, I was a bit jaded.

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A partial rainbow under a huge thunderstorm between the Mittens of Monument Valley.

I had been looking online at things to see and do in Monument Valley, and seeing all the ads for guided tours and how much of the area is off-limits without a guide, the cynic in me decided that the Navajo Nation was simply exploiting the natural beauty for a profit in the same way commercial entities were exploiting Sedona. That was how I felt until I got there.

Storm clouds glowing just before sunset behind Eagle Mesa in Monument Valley.

Even before the RV was parked and hooked up in the campground, I had a sense that this place was different. Not just different…special. Before I even saw the sacred valley of the Navajo Nation, I could feel its energy. It was as if the land was welcoming me and I felt more relaxed than I had felt in weeks. It’s very unusual for me to feel that way on a travel day, and especially prior to getting settled in.

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Just minutes before the sun rises over the horizon, the sky explodes with color, while the incredible sandstone buttes of Monument Valley remain in the dark. This is the classic view of Monument Valley, including the West Mitten, East Mitten, and Merrill Butte.

After spending a few days as a guest at the campground and both of the restaurants, I have to say my assumptions regarding exploitation changed. I believe there are many, many people who wish to experience this serene place, and they have been coming for years. Monument Valley has been not only a tourist destination, but a filming location for dozens of movies, starting in the 1920’s and continuing today. I have great respect for the way the Navajo people have come up with ways to accommodate that demand, while remaining respectful of the land and its heritage.

The Other View; gray whiskers; mitchell butte; monument valley; Sunrise; daybreak; monument valley; dawn; sunrise; sandstone buttes; colorful; soft; glow; light; contrast; orange; clouds; weather; navajo nation; arizona; utah; desert southwest; formation; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

While most visitors to Monument Valley look to the northeast to see The Mittens and Merrill Butte, if you look to the southwest, you see Gray Whiskers and Mitchell Butte. This other view is particularly pretty in the soft glow of the early morning light.

In Sedona, I felt like a mark. Like I was welcome there as long as I had “tourist dollars” to spend. In Monument Valley, I felt like a respected guest, who was welcome as long as I behaved respectfully in return. And even though a guided tour was not in my budget this time around, I would like to take one sometime, since this surreal place is most definitely on my “want to visit again” list. I was a little sad to see it fade into the distance in my rear view mirror. But, I am also grateful for my time there as I believe it bestowed a bit of its wonder on my soul.

Mile Thirteen; 13; milepost; mile post; mile marker; US 163; route 163; monument valley; forrest gump; movie; running; stop; utah; arizona; navajo nation; highway; clouds; desert southwest; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson

Mile post thirteen on US route 163 just north of Monument Valley in Utah. This spot became famous as the point in the movie “Forrest Gump” where Forrest decided to stop running. In this image, you can see the mile marker on the left and the red sandstone buttes of Monument Valley in the distance.