America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

America’s Public Lands – Bears Ears

From the moment I arrived in the quiet little town of Bluff, in the southeastern part of Utah, I had the sense that I had stumbled upon a little-known area of scenic wonders and sacred history. My usual practice of asking the RV park operator for suggestions of things to see and do in the area yielded a list too abundant to possibly complete in my one-week scheduled visit. Having just spent several days in Monument Valley, witnessing some of the most breathtaking views the four-corners region has to offer, I was not expecting to be stunned. I was in for a surprise!

Bluff, Utah Bluff, Utah  Est. 650 A.D.

One of the first things I noticed is that the “Bluffoons” (as the locals like to call themselves) have a wicked sense of humor, along with a mighty sense of pride in the long history of the area.

Loree Johnson Photography; House on Fire; Utah; anasazi; mule canyon; ancient; ruins; cliff dwellings; sandstone; desert southwest; flame; blanding ut; cedar mesaThese Anasazi ruins in Utah’s Mule Canyon have been nicknamed the “House on Fire” ruins because the textures of the cliffs above the ruins resemble flames.

Having seen photographs of the House on Fire, I wanted to see it with my own eyes. It was not easy to find. After much searching on the internet, and quizzing a few locals, I found what seemed to be the correct trail through BLM land in the Mule Canyon area. I remember thinking to myself how strange it was that such a unique place was so little-known and sparsely visited. I spent a morning hiking to the ruins and a couple of hours there taking in the energy of the place without ever seeing another person. It felt as though I had connected with the spirit of the ancient people who built it.

The Other Monument Valley; the lady in the bathtub; valley of the gods; southern ut; utah; monument valley; remote; buttes; mesas; balancing rocks; erosion; desert southwest; four corners; inspiring; beautiful; surreal; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree Johnson A sandstone butte in Valley of the Gods known as The Lady in the Bathtub. Valley of the Gods is located in a remote area of southern Utah just 25 miles north of Monument Valley. With its red rock mesas, towering sandstone buttes, and balancing rocks that seem to defy gravity, this place is every bit as inspiring and beautiful to behold as Monument Valley.

Another place I decided to visit, per suggestion of the RV park management, was Valley of the Gods. Wow! Some people refer to it as “the other Monument Valley.” The terrain is very similar, but the access road is better–as long as it hasn’t rained recently. I was able to navigate the entire 17 mile scenic drive in my compact two-wheel drive car. I only saw a handful of other people while there, including a few people who were camping.

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The sandstone buttes in Valley of the Gods are every bit as majestic and breathtaking as the more famous formations in Monument Valley. And once again, I found myself wondering how this amazing place was so unknown by so many.

During my too-short visit to the area, I was unaware that it had been under consideration for National Monument status for over two years. Looking back at the wonder I experienced, I was thrilled when I heard the news that President Obama had designated the Bears Ears National Monument.

Not only that, but five tribal nations are represented by a council whose responsibility is to advise federal agencies regarding administration of the monument. It is the first time in our history that Native Americans have been given authoritative input into the management of the lands their ancestors occupied. The area is home to abundant numbers of burial grounds and cliff dwellings, which have lately been the target of “pot hunters.” A term used to describe those who scavenge the ruins for artifacts and sell them illegally. The Antiquities Act (which is the authority used by the President to designate the monument) was written expressly for the purpose of protecting such artifacts and historic dwellings.

Bluff Sunset; light; bluff ut; utah; desert southwest; end of the day; glow; momentary; clouds; storm; tiny town; last light; four corners; and; the; over; with; under; above; against; in the; on the; at the; Loree JohnsonAs the sun sets on the tiny town of Bluff, Utah, the bluffs which give the town its name light up in the glow of the days last light. Storm clouds above the bluffs take on a momentary golden glow.

This new Bears Ears National Monument is long overdue, and should prove to be economically beneficial to the little towns like Bluff, where they seemed to me to be trying to convince the tourists to stay a while, rather than blast through on the way north to Canyonlands and Arches. There is indeed, much worth seeing in this remote section of Utah. And I am happy that it will be protected for future generations to appreciate, and even for me to visit again.

Time Travel – Mesa Verde NP

Time Travel – Mesa Verde NP

For the longest time, Mesa Verde National Park was on my list. You know, The List. Things I must see if I’m ever in the area. Not because it’s filled with spectacular photo opportunities, but because it’s fascinating to see the dwellings and communities of ancient people. Looking at these structures that were built seven hundred to a fifteen hundred years ago, I can almost imagine what life would be like living there. Almost.

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The Cliff Dwelling known as Oak Tree House at Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado.

Surprisingly, Mesa Verde National Park does not have the highest concentration of preserved ancient pueblo dwellings in the US. That distinction belongs to Chaco Canyon National Historic Park in New Mexico. But Mesa Verde has plenty of ruins to see and explore if you are interested. The sites there range from basic “pit houses,” which are little more than holes dug into the ground with connecting passages between them, to the elaborate cliff dwellings built into the naturally eroded archways high on the cliffs of canyons. I found the so-called “mesa top” dwellings to be the most fascinating, maybe because I could really see and get a feel for what life must have been like in these highly organized villages.

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Within the Far View complex of sites at Colorado’s Mesa Verde National Park, lies an ancient community known as Coyote Village. This site is very interesting and fun to explore. It is an intimate look directly into the lives of the Anasazi more than 500 years ago. This is the view of one of the living quarters believed to house a family.

While the pit houses are the earliest type of dwellings, dating back to around 600 A.D., the mesa top dwellings came later. According to archaeologists, these dwellings were in use around 900-1000 A.D.

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Coyote Village. This is the view looking down into a kiva, which is believed to be a family or community gathering place used for dance, worship, and other social rituals.

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This is the central tower of the village. It is unknown what the towers were used for. Some archaeologists believe they were ceremonial, based on their common proximity to kivas, others speculate they were part of a village to village communication network.

The elaborate cliff dwellings, such as the Cliff Palace, were the most recently occupied sites, being in use around 1200-1300 A.D.

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The Cliff Palace at Colorado’s Mesa Verde National Park is the largest preserved cliff dwelling of its kind in the United States. The Anasazi, or “Ancient Ones” are believed to have occupied this community, and others like it, from about 1200-1300, after which it was abandoned.

The inhabitants of these complexes used a series of ladders and “toe trails” (notches carved into the rock) to enter and exit the village for farming and hunting activities. There is some speculation that the cliff dwellings were built out of a need for defense against other tribes. All of the dwellings at Mesa Verde were abandoned by late in the 1300’s. Archaeologists believe that a prolonged drought caused the inhabitants to move south in search of more fertile ground for farming.

We are very fortunate these sites were set aside and protected as a National Park in 1906. Even by that time, many of the ruins had been plundered by those seeking relics. If you ever wanted to travel back in time, a visit to Mesa Verde provides the perfect opportunity.

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