Finding My Way Home – Northern California Coast

Finding My Way Home – Northern California Coast

The Northern California Coast is the sixth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

On a beautifully clear, sunny day at the beach, the breeze picks up a bit of the breaking wave, creating a natural water show along the Pacific coast.
“Ocean Spray”

Oregon state parks have some of the best campgrounds anywhere. Most have full hookups, great locations, and reasonable prices, but there is a stay limit. I have reached my fourteen day limit at Bullard’s Beach in Bandon and must move on. Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon is my next destination and it feels like a homecoming of sorts. In my previous life, I vacationed at Harris Beach many times. I know the campground, the trails and the beach well. It’s winter and they aren’t taking reservations, so I show up and drive through, looking for an available campsite that has hookups and is big enough for my rig. Chris has gone back to his permanent home, so it’s just me and Luna for now. It’s still gray and gloomy, as is normal for winter at the coast. I can’t remember the last day it didn’t rain. I find an open space and park, trying to situate my door between the deepest part of the puddles. Luna and I take a walk to the registration booth to pay for our two nights here.

Keyhole rock at Harris Beach State Park on the Oregon coast. When the swells come through the hole in the rock, the wave breaks in a perfect half circle.
“Keyhole rock”

The next morning I awake to what? Is that sunshine streaming through my windows? I haven’t seen a sunny day since October in Pasco. It’s now December and I feel giddy at the sight of the sun. We spend most of the day walking on the beach and gratefully soaking up the precious warm rays. A chance to restock my groceries at the best Fred Meyer store on the planet also lifts my spirits. And just like that, I’m back on the road again. I’m leaving Oregon and will be spending the rest of winter on the Northern California Coast.

As the sun sinks over the horizon, the view overlooking Trinidad Harbor is transformed. The white clouds are painted in hues of gold and orange as the anchored boats rest for the evening. The trees atop Trinidad Head are silhouetted by the colorful rays.
“Trinidad Harbor Sunset”

I’ve reserved my next monthly stay at a small RV park near Patrick’s Point just north of Trinidad, California. When I arrive, I’m pleasantly surprised to find that my site includes a lovely wooden deck that overlooks a large pond on the property. The place is full of travel trailers, but most of them are unoccupied. It seems that this place is used as a second home or weekend getaway for most of the renters. There are a few park model homes that are occupied, but I seem to be the only temporary resident. I’m starting to notice that each private RV park has its own personality. Most places have things to love and things that aren’t so great. This place is very beautiful and quiet, but it’s rather small and on a busy road, so there isn’t really much of a good place to walk the dog, much less a place to play off-leash. So far, I’ve been really lucky as far as finding places to stay with doggie play areas either on-site or nearby. We will make do here and I will learn to check more closely into the dog friendliness of places in making future reservations.

Deep in the coastal redwoods, a fallen tree becomes a host supporting these beautiful orange mushrooms. But the mushrooms have a supporting role as well. Something's been nibbling on them and only the forest knows who.
“Secrets of the Forest”

My first mission in this place is to find an available room or cabin to rent so my children can visit me. The motor home is designed to sleep four, but because of my remodel to make it a comfortable full-time home, it’s just too crowded for guests. Plus, I find a guest house with a bathtub. Of all the things I knew I would miss, I never thought the top of the list would be baths! What a treat to soak in a tub, spend some time with my kids, and cook together in a real kitchen! I know I won’t be able to splurge like this often, but I’m thrilled that I can do it this time. We talk about my emotional melt-down over Christmas, and promise to get together whenever the opportunity presents itself, regardless of the date on the calendar. We spend a precious few days together, including a day trip along California’s beautiful Lost Coast, and then they go back to their own lives and I resume my quest to be a better photographer.

Fern Canyon, in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, is an amazing place. With 50-80 feet vertical walls covered in ferns, it resembles a hanging garden. Take in the peace and tranquility of the small stream and enjoy nature's masterful gardening as you stroll along the perfectly polished stones. Like taking a step back to prehistoric times, this place on the Northern California coast was actually featured in the movie "Jurassic Park."
“Jurassic Park”

With the Trinidad area as my base, I can visit the Redwoods, both Jedediah Smith and Prairie Creek Parks. I also go to the fabled Fern Canyon for the very first time. This is the location on the coast of Northern California that was used to film some scenes in the movie “Jurrasic Park.” I can see why they chose it. I have never seen any place like it. A canyon scoured by a small creek with ferns covering the walls from top to bottom. It’s a truly unique place and I’m glad to have gone even though I risked damaging my car to get there. There are two creeks which you must drive through to get there, with the depth of the water varying depending on the time of year. Luckily, when I go, there haven’t been any recent rains in the area and the creeks are passable in a small car. As much as I love my little Yaris for it’s dependability and economy, there are certain times when I wish I owned a four-wheel-drive vehicle. This is one of them.

The tallest living trees on earth, California coastal redwoods (sequoia sempervirens), truly are natures skyscrapers.
“Skyscrapers”

The coastal California redwoods have inspired me since I first set eyes on them. They’ve also been a photographic nemesis ever since I got serious about photography. I adore these incomparably majestic trees with the devotion of a religious fanatic. Yet, their very majesty is what makes them so difficult to photograph. With dizzying heights of up to 379 feet (115 m), the canopy of the sequoia sempervirens blocks most of the sunlight at the floor of the forest, which also happens to be where me and my camera are located. This creates a huge range of light between the bright bits of sky and the deep, dark shadows, which makes proper exposure difficult, if not impossible. The sheer size of them, in addition to their soaring height, requires a wide angle lens, but that creates geometric distortion, which I dislike. Although I find them to be difficult subjects, I cannot stop trying to do them justice. And even if I feel like I could do better with the photos, I am more than satisfied spending time among these extraordinary giants.

On a cloudy day in the California coastal redwood forest, the sun finally breaks through for a few moments, bathing the forest in warmth and light.
“Breaking Through”

While I still love landscape photography, wildlife is garnering more and more of my attention. There’s something thrilling about searching for birds, stalking them and trying to do them justice in a photograph. I find myself searching for refuges and wildlife areas each time I arrive in a new place. In this part of the country, I have many options and the birds are abundant in the winter. I love the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge on the Northern California Coast. I’m learning a lot about what it takes to be a wildlife photographer – mostly through trial and error. Being out there, alone with the birds, is where I want to be. This is on my mind when I start thinking about which direction I want to go for spring.

Red-Tailed Hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) in mid-takeoff.
“Red-Tailed Hawk Swoosh”

I’m starting to think about my journey in terms of destinations and routes. I have Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks in mind as destinations. Now, I look at the map and determine a route. Another thing I’m learning is that the actual traveling is not the fun part. Arriving at and exploring new places is fantastic, but getting there is more of a chore. It’s not just the driving, but also the tear down and set up each time, which I have mostly mastered, but is a lot of work for one person. Because of this, my travel is starting to be shorter distances with longer stays. After all, what’s the hurry?

A Roosevelt Elk cow cleans up her calf. This mother and child were photographed at Prairie Creek Redwoods in Humboldt County, California.
“Devoted Mom”
Best of 2018

Best of 2018

It’s that time again. Time to re-live the past year, photographically speaking. What a year it’s been! It’s always difficult to narrow down my favorites to just ten, but this year was even more challenging because of all the wonderful photographic opportunities that came my way. Following are my personal favorites of 2018, which are not necessarily the best sellers or most popular of the year.

10. Desert Bighorn

"Desert Bighorn" by Loree Johnson Photography. The elusive desert bighorn sheep watchful from atop a ridge at Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, Nevada.
Desert Bighorn

When picking personal favorites, I lean toward the unusual or unique. While this image is not really either, it was my very first sighting of one of these elusive animals, so it qualifies as both for me.

9. Pheasant Away

"Pheasant Away" by Loree Johnson Photography. This ring necked pheasant rooster (Phasianus colchicus) gives a detailed look at his gorgeous plumage as he quickly flies away. Photographed at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Pheasant Away

When I shot this photo, I was disappointed that the bird flew directly away from me. Usually, “bird butt” photos end up on the cutting room floor. But, when I saw the detail of the plumage and that fantastic curl at the end of the tail, I knew this was a keeper.

8. Winter Solstice – Signal Peak, Utah

"Winter Solstice - Signal Peak, Utah" by Loree Johnson Photography. Sunrise on December 21st, 2018 lights up the peaks of the Pine Valley Mountains. Signal Peak is the highest peak in the range.
Winter Solstice – Signal Peak, Utah

While staying in Hurricane, Utah, I noticed how the rising sun lit up the mountains most mornings. Hoping to catch the light when clouds were present, I set out before dawn on the morning of the Winter Solstice to an unobstructed viewpoint I had discovered a few days earlier. Nature kindly gave me the sky I was hoping for.

7. Owl Scowl

"Owl Scowl" by Loree Johnson Photography. Great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) with a scowl on its face, perched in a tree at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Owl Scowl

What can I say? 2018 was the Year of the Owl for me. There are four owl images in my top ten this year, and honestly, I probably could have done a top ten of just the owls. This is one of the newly fledged youngsters hanging around Malheur National Wildlife Refuge when I arrived to volunteer in July.

6. Glorious Whitney

"Glorious Whitney" by Loree Johnson Photography. Spectacular sunset over Mount Whitney in California's Eastern Sierra, as seen through boulders in the Alabama Hills. Crepuscular rays, commonly known as God rays, illuminate the sky above the highest peak in the contiguous United States, creating the effect of a crown.
Glorious Whitney

Working around the availability of RV sites and a list of destinations during the month of October resulted in an eight day stay at Lone Pine, California. For the first six days, there wasn’t a single cloud in the sky. Then, one afternoon, magic happened.

5. Barn Owl Hiding

"Barn Owl Hiding" by Loree Johnson Photography. Barn owl (Tyto alba) hiding among the tree branches at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Barn Owl Hiding

While volunteering at Malheur NWR this summer, I was told of a pair of barn owls spotted along the auto tour route several miles south of headquarters. Since this bird was missing from my life list and had eluded me for many years, I set out early in the morning for two mornings in hopes of a sighting. Both times, I came back owl-less. The second time, I accepted the disappointment, ate breakfast, and took the dog for a walk. On our walk, we spooked a large bird from a tree near the RV. Turns out it was a barn owl! I felt almost as if my longing to see one called it to me.

4. Painted by God

"Painted by God" by Loree Johnson Photography. Clouds appear as brush strokes in the sky as they reflect the last light of the setting sun over the Pacific Ocean. Photographed at Sunset Bay, Oregon.
Painted by God

While traveling up the Oregon Coast this spring, I stayed a few days at Sunset Bay. Given the name of the place, I had to go down to the beach for sunset at least one time. While waiting for the sun to set, I noticed some unusual, wispy clouds out on the horizon and wondered what effect they would have on the sunset. As the sky began to take on color, those clouds transformed into “brushstrokes” over the rocks that took my breath away! It was one of the most amazing sunsets I have ever witnessed, and now I know how the place got its name.

3. Burrowing Owl Joy

"Burrowing Owl Joy" by Loree Johnson Photography. Burrowing owl fledgling (Athene cunicularia) celebrating its newly discovered ability to fly. Photographed near Burns, Oregon.
Burrowing Owl Joy

The first time I set out to find the burrowing owls near Burns, Oregon, I really didn’t know what to expect. I found them in the morning, and the sun was behind them, making photography challenging. A week or so later, I went back in the evening. Not only was the light great, but the fledglings were flying around, practicing landings and takeoffs, and generally having an owl party. What a joy it was to watch them.

2. Last Light on the Watchman

"Last Light on The Watchman" by Loree Johnson Photography. As the sun sets at Zion National Park, The Watchman catches its last glow, while the Virgin River reflects the light. A light dusting of snow on the peaks indicates that winter has arrived in the desert southwest.
Last Light on The Watchman

If you’ve ever visited Zion National Park, you’ve seen the crowds of photographers gathered on the bridge at Canyon Junction at sunset. This is one of the iconic views in the park that everyone wants to capture. Because of this, I have avoided that bridge each time I have visited. This year I happened to be there on a cold winter day when only two other photographers were on the bridge, so I decided to go for it. I couldn’t have asked for a better sunset, but was wishing I had remembered to bring my gloves. Cold fingers aside, it was a fortunate decision.

1. Flasher

"Flasher" by Loree Johnson Photography. Great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) holding its wings open while perched in a cottonwood tree. Photographed at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon.
Flasher

It’s only fitting that the number one image for my Year of the Owl is an owl. There were several that could have gotten the honor, but this one wins for the unusual pose and that mischievous expression. I already miss the owls who allowed me to spend time with them and photograph them this summer. And I look forward to discovering what 2019 has in store.

Happy New Year and thank you for taking the time to indulge my “top ten” ramblings!

Whales in the Smith River!

Whales in the Smith River!

On Sunday and Monday, March 11th and 12th 2018, whales entered the Smith River in northern California. To be honest, I don’t know for sure if there were multiple whales or just one, but there were at least three different times over two days when a whale was in the river. In talking with people who have lived here for a long time, some of them all their lives, no one can remember ever seeing whales in the river.

Whales are tough subjects to photograph, mostly because they stay underwater about 95% of the time. And although I had a nice vantage point from above the water, the choppy conditions and the cloudiness of the river due to recent rains made it difficult to see or anticipate where the whale might surface next. Having said all that, what a sight it was! There were times when the whale was less than fifty feet away! I was and still am awestruck. What an amazing experience!

Whale SpoutingWhale Spouting

After observing this incredible event, I was curious about what kind of whales they were. And why they might be in the river. In my searching and reading, I discovered that these are Pacific Gray Whales (Eschrichtius robustus), which are commonly seen migrating along the Pacific Coast.  Here is an interesting article with a map of gray whale migration.

Whale Blow HolesWhale Blow Holes

One of the identifying characteristics of gray whales is they have two blow holes. This causes their spouts to go up in a ‘V’ shape. Another way to tell gray whales from other whales is their lack of a dorsal fin. Instead, they have a large dorsal hump, which can be seen just above the water in the photo below. Whale Moon
Whale Moon

The photo above was taken in the late afternoon on Sunday, March 11th. The photo below was taken in the morning of the same day. I believe it is the same whale because of the crescent moon shaped mark on the whale’s side, just forward of the hump. This particular whale exited the river late Sunday morning and then returned several hours later.

Whale Moon MarkWhale Moon Mark

There is some speculation that whales rub themselves on the ocean bottom and on rocks to remove barnacles. It’s not that the barnacles bother them, but more that they provide a place for whale lice to take up residence. The whale(s) that I observed in the river were swimming around a small area with many large rocks above and below the surface. There were no visible mud trails in the water, which would indicate they were feeding on bottom-dwelling crustaceans, as they do in the ocean. Maybe they were using the rocks at the mouth of the Smith River as a big loofah.

Whale Dorsal Whale Dorsal

This image is from one of the closest passes, which was made on Monday morning, March 12th. Here, you can clearly see the dorsal hump. Since the Monday morning visit was rather short compared to the other visits, and since I never saw the other side of it’s back, I cannot be sure if it was the same whale that visited twice the day before. During all three of these episodes, I kept hoping for a fluke. Sadly, the whale(s) never felt like lifting a tail out of the water. Below is the closest I got, where you can see the outline of the whale’s tail, just below the surface of the water.

Whale TailWhale Tail

I was fortunate enough to get a wave from a pectoral fin, though.

"Whale Wave" by Loree Johnson Photography. The pectoral fin of a Pacific Gray Whale (Eschrichtius robustus) breaks the surface as the whale rolls in the Smith River, California.Whale Wave

I have many photographs of these encounters, which are mostly documentary. If you are a researcher who studies these amazing creatures and you would like copies of the photos, I would be happy to share them. Please contact me here.

All in all, it was an amazing experience to see these massive creatures in a relatively small space. I continue to be humbled and awed by nature as I seek out encounters with creatures of all types and sizes.

California’s newest celebrity

California’s newest celebrity

When I came to California’s Humboldt County in mid-December, I had ideas of photographing the ocean, the redwoods, and possibly some wildlife. Little did I know, a star was about to be born.

After making a few trips to the Avenue of the Giants, and a few trips to various beaches, I began to get the urge to shoot some wildlife. I already knew of a few places to go after having stayed in the area for a month last year at this time. I’m always looking for new places to explore, so I searched the internet looking for wildlife locations in Humboldt County. I noticed the results were dominated by a Great Gray Owl (Strix Nebulosa). Further reading revealed that this owl was outside it’s normal range, which is usually higher elevations and farther north. In fact, the last time the species was recorded here was 1982! Quite interesting, I thought, and worth a 60 or so mile drive from where I’m staying to try for a sighting.

Great Grey Owl Visits the Redwoods

For a little while in the winter of 2016, this great grey owl (Strix nebulosa) strayed from its traditional range to vacation in the towering coastal redwoods of Humboldt County, California.

On my first trip, I went to the visitor center to inquire about owl sightings and was told that it had been seen nearly every day since it was first spotted on January 16th. Alas, I picked a day when the bird decided to remain in hiding and went home with no sighting and no photos.

The next trip, however, proved to be successful, and a bit startling. Unaware of how popular and sought-after this bird is, I was somewhat surprised by the number of birders and photographers present. At any given time, at least 20-30 people are watching and photographing this owl, who seems pretty uninterested in it’s hoard of admirers.

Great Grey Owl in Flight

Great grey owl (Strix nebulosa) in flight among the redwoods at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Humboldt County, California.

On that first trip, I only came away with one flight shot, but many portraits of the owl perched in redwood trees. Given that this species is not usually found in this area, and that coastal redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) have a very limited distribution, these photos are pretty unique and I’m thrilled to have captured them.

Great Grey Owl in a Giant Redwood

The great grey owl (Strix nebulosa) is an uncommon visitor to California’s coastal redwood forests. This one visited Humboldt County in 2016 at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.

Both times I was fortunate to photograph this owl, I was in the company of many other photographers. Most of the people I spoke to had driven six or more hours just to see and photograph this bird. It seems I was in the presence of the most famous owl in California!

On my third visit, Mr. Famous Owl was in a different part of the forest, surrounded by smaller and less impressive trees. But, that was the visit where I captured the best flight shot.

Great Gray Owl Swoop

Great gray owl (Strix nebulosa) in mid swoop at Prairie Creek Redwoods, Humboldt County, California.

Being there and being surrounded by so many photographers, with so many expensive lenses and other gear was a bit humbling. Many times when I am photographing wildlife, I’m among people who have just happened along and my camera and lens is something impressive compared to their phones and pocket cameras. In this case, I was definitely the one with lesser gear. These owl paparazzi are quite serious about their camera equipment, and quite willing to spend tens of thousands of dollars on it.

Great Gray Owl Pose

Great gray owl perched at the very top of a small pine tree in Humboldt County’s Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.

But, as they say, it’s not the camera, but the person behind it. In my case, I do the very best I can with what I have. And while I may have had a little bit of “gear envy,” especially when the light started to fade and my lens could no longer cut it, I still came away from this experience with great satisfaction and gratitude. I mean, how often do you get the opportunity to see and photograph such a magnificent bird in such a magnificent setting? No wonder he’s famous!

To see more of my owl photos, go to the The Owl Collection, or to see more wildlife and scenic beauty of Humboldt County, click on What’s New. As always, prints and cards purchased fund these adventures and enable my photography addiction.

California wildlife area under siege by rogue group

California wildlife area under siege by rogue group

Unfortunately, most people are unaware of a potentially volatile situation at a State Wildlife Area in Northern California. I visited Fay Slough Wildlife Area yesterday, and was shocked to learn that it had been taken over by a rogue band of outlaw raptors. Upon entry into the area, I immediately noticed several White-tailed Kites. Some were perched in trees and bushes, while others were involved in aerial reconnaissance. They claim to have hundreds of followers, but my observations confirmed only a dozen or so.

Kite Hovering over Fay Slough

Kite Hovering over Fay Slough

I spoke with a representative of the group, who agreed to talk with me under condition of anonymity.

I asked the kite what the group was demanding. “We want the government to stop relegating us to these small land areas,” said the spokesbird. He went on to say, “When my grandparents settled this land, we had over a hundred thousand voles and mice we raised here. Today, our herd is down to a few thousand. This livestock is our livelihood. We can’t afford to be squeezed out any more.”

Another kite on an aerial reconnaissance mission

Another kite on an aerial reconnaissance mission

I then asked why the kites saw it as their right to have exclusive use of the land. “We don’t want humans on our land any more.” he replied. “We don’t mind sharing. In fact, there are a couple of red-tailed hawks and a short-eared owl in our group. We’re actively recruiting the otters and coyotes. It’s the people we have a problem with. They divert our water, cover the land with pavement and buildings, and poison our herds.”

When I asked if the group had any intention of getting violent, the answer was vague. “We don’t want to resort to violence, but we won’t rule it out. We intend to sustain the protest as long as it takes for our demands to be met.”

As I turned to leave, I heard these parting words: “We just want things to be the way they used to be.”

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